I don't think its a big deal as its not that established. Just to be safe remove half one week and the other half the following week. That should be fine. Its definitely best not to have *any* internal media, I'm glad your aware of that

[tank setup]

How would you feed the skimmer? usually one needs a holding tank to control water flow. There are plenty of sump less tanks but they use hang on the back skimmers and don't have nearly enough water flow / oxygenation IMO

I don't advocate powerheads in the tank they always suck up creatures and end up clogging with something or other. I'm pretty sure your 500 gph on a 65 with the 3 ft of head will be plenty especially if you use the spraybar  and overflow box. Water come in from the bottom and out through the top. It gives you a nice circular motion [looking at the tank from the side]. Id say try it first without the powerheads and see how it goes. IMO you don't need them.Its very gratifying to hear you using the eggcrate method. I'm sure you wont be disappointed keep me posted and say hello to your students for me!

You could try... but I wouldn't recommend it. What usually happens is, the idea to start small and basic but as you go along and see different livestock you realize you will need this and that: ie: skimmer, good reef lighting, water purification etc. The livestock is fairly costly so one shouldn't go in unprepared and intern the equipment is expensive so it all goes hand in hand. Start off rite. Not necessarily high cost but with the correct equipment as you can afford it and build from there. Undergravels are not used today, nor are the whispers. It could be tried as an experiment but I wouldn't recommend it as I seriously doubt if you'd be happy with the outcome. If you have a minute see my survey of other hobbyists that will give you a general idea of what's involved

yes

you can have live sand by all means... in a proper set-up

Great Ill be looking forward to them!

All sounds very good EXCEPT only running the skimmer once a week. Who told you to do that?A skimmer should run most if not all the time.

That is normal

That's NOT good! You have to do something about that. It sounds like to don't have enough surface skimming OR waterflow. If you did... this scum would be removed

How are these magnums fed? do you have the typical in & out hoses for the magnums? that's NOT good!Magnums are not the best choice. You should have a sump and then possibly could use the magnums as pumps only. If you do use the magnums definitely *do not* use filterfloss of internal media.

You could purchase an overflow box (they hang on the back) from any online dealer or drill the back of the tank Although I think a overflow box would be much better.Check my links page if your looking for an online dealer. If you need a clearer answer let me know Ill do what I can You have to get rid of that surface scum

thank you

humm.. good question. Personally I would just run the tank as is. There isn't really *too* much you could add to it and I'm sure when you do move you'll end up with a bigger tank.

[lighting]

Well, that will give you 5.12 wpg which is very acceptable although *slightly* on the high end. Ice cap is a great choice. The ballast's run very efficiently and cool and are considered to be top of the line in all areas, Performance, efficiently and longevity. If your concerned about too intense light you could have one ballast on a timer that would only be on for say 2/3 of the total lighting period. If you're going to make the box ... meaning you have to commit to a decision now then I would recommend including 2 ballast's. If you have the option to add another ballast (easily) later then you may want to experiment with just one and see how it goes. Really... I has to do with what types of creatures you plan to keep. If they are in the higher league then most definitely use 2 ballast's. If you're sure you will only have medium and low light then absolutely no sense to have 5.12 wpg. so, only you really can make the decision Hope this made some sense. If you need to, feel free to write back.

Are you sure set about having the clowns and anemones? My advise is always to think well before you start as at this stage you have the opportunity to do things differently. PLease see my talk ../METELSKY.HTM Everyone loves the symbiotic relationship the clowns have with anemones, but this has a long term price tag associated with it. No doubt the initial expense but moreso the long term cost of lamp replacement every 6 months and a very substansial electricity cost (trust me) My one 200 gallon has 6 six ft fluorescent @25 ea. = 150 x 2 (every 6 months) so 300 a year for the lamps and I've estimated the electricity just for lighting to be 40 per month = 480 + 300 rounds up to about 800 per year. Even if you took 1/4 of the cost, your tank being a 55, you're still looking at a minimum or 200 per year. This is also the lower end of the lighting, my tanks being in the 3.6 wpg range. Just something to consider

Not necessarily... I suspect your problem to be linked with your filtration methods. Your lighting schedule is typical in the hobby.

My advise is unless you are particularly handy with tools and get satisfaction for doing it yourself, is to simply purchase a hood / canopy for the tank. Firstly, a 55 isn't something you want to invest $$ and time in. A 125 yes. but a 55 you will never get your money back for the lighting. There are many online stores that have reef specific hoods that are affordable. (more affordable than building it yourself) I would suggest going to http://www.reefers.com see guy named Brian tell him I recommended you. He's a fair guy and will treat you rite.

As far as 2 ft bulbs go... on a reef you want 4 ft vho on ice cap ballast's. Also PC is a good choice, pcs are supposed to last a little longer however I've never tried them. I use URI ho and vho. The 2 ft bulbs sound like a freshwater hood If you really want to diy you can get all the parts online but I assure you its more work and time. On the other hand if you like to do that - then I'm sure you can find plans online or.... I have a complete section of how to in my book.

Overall - it depends on your time, skill level and workspace. Only you can really answer that. I would not recommend a plexi tank for a reef. Allot of different types of algae grow inside the tank including the desirable pink coralline, getting that off of the from of a plexi tank will test anyone's patience. My recommendation would be to rethink your reef plans, write up a list of the estimated cost. If you do this you will find out ahead of time what your in for and that will help you to make a better decision. MY main point here is that reef tanks are *extremely* expensive and I always advise getting the absolute largest tank you can afford. In your case this may not be a 55 because a 55 is a very common size and not something you will get a good return on. A 125 is a better bet. Compare... and then look at the resale. Myself, I always opt for functionality over looks where as a bit of unsightliness of lighting or filters can be ignored, but that's not for everyone. Some people like *nice* and nice = $$$$ well enough of my rant, Id suggest browsing my site regarding the survey of what others use and the cost per gallon etc. If you have any specific questions let me know and Ill see what I can do.I'm not too sure if I answered your question here...

I would space them evenly. Usually when you're actually installing the end caps you find that you must space them relatively evenly due to the size of the endcaps wiring etc.

Excellent

    Well, that will give you 5.12 wpg which is very acceptable although *slightly* on the high end. Ice cap is a great choice. The ballast's run very efficiently and cool and are considered to be top of the line in all areas, Performance, efficiently and longevity.  If your concerned about too intense light you could have one ballast on a timer that would only be on for say 2/3 of the total lighting period. If you're going to make the box ... meaning you have to commit to a decision now then I would recommend including 2 ballast's. If you have the option to add another ballast (easily) later then you may want to experiment with just one and see how it goes. Really... I has to do with what types of creatures you plan to keep. If they are in the higher league then most definitely use 2 ballast's. If you're sure you will only have medium and low light then absolutely no sense to have 5.12 wpg. so, only you really can make the decision Hope this made some sense. If you need to, feel free to write back. I'm not sure if it matters to mix the bulbs on a ballast providing they are the same wattage. However, I would keep them the same. Use the timers to control the intensity. I think you'll be very pleased with the lighting

I would use actinic white

ok if that's a 55 gal then 160/55=2.9watts per gal which is in the medium to low range (but IMO acceptable) for anemones and high light corals 5WPG is closer to what people use.

how old is the tank?

you should research this yourself as anything I may say may conflict with current products available. consult the  dealer where you purchased from.

no... the MH lights / ballasts are special... one *could* buy the fixture in a HIC but in the long run its not worth it. And the bulbs in a HIC are definitely not going to work. They have to be specialized reef bulbs for solely the purpose of giving the reef creatures the correct spectrum HIC=home improvement center

not really.. Unless you purchase HO or VHO fixtures then purchase *reef* bulbs

it just does not work that way

well Id say if you choose low light creatures... then see what happens how good they look. Keep in mind this is one of the pitfalls of starting with the wrong size tank, something I highly stress. One can let it snowball to an extremely costly tank of undesirable size that wont return the investment. So if anything.... maybe just get *new* reef bulbs for your fixtures that in its self will do a lot. You never said how much wattage you have? 2ft 3ft ?? low light creatures really don't need allot of light.

Really? that's news to me. Lighting seems to be the most controversial subject. I've been suggesting 3-5 watts per gallon for 4 years online and have taken quite a bit of heat about it. I've tried to put an end to the "controversy" by doing a survey of what people actually uses (see my survey page), An average of 100+ hobbyists... the average wattage is 5 WPG.

My book was first published in 1996 and I suggest there a min or 3 to a max or 5. I maintain that advise to anyone who asks. Typically if someone is asking they are just starting out, and they hear all stories about super intense lighting.

It all comes down to

 what type of creatures you plan to keep

 The quality of light (use lamps specifically designed for reefs)

 Understanding the higher watts = substantial more money to run

For someone starting out I recommend 3 - 5 because this is the requirement of the easier to keep specimens

extreme high light is for the more difficult to keep animals

lets see 75*4=300

so your 3 110 will be fine (if you don't plan to have extremely high light animals)

Can you have 3 vhos? I was always under the impression that they ran in pairs?

I suppose if you used an ice cap ballast for 4 and disabled one would be ok.

Are you sure you can have 3?

[live rock & sand]

yes use a maximum of 1.75 per gall most of this is on my FAQ you know

she just took close up pictures. My tank uses my eggcrate method which is all explained in SRK

I don't really understand the ? but by that time you'll have significant experience. I take it when you buy your 125...?

It may or may not come back as purple it may be nice bright red. IF the company is reefers Brian Griffen he is a good friend of mine and can be trusted. The white stuff is dieoff and is causing the ammonia it will comeback you have to be patient!

no. look.... here is what you need to know

1 add all liverock then cycle. Be patient don't add anything, don't sweat it

2 make sure you have a good source water ie ro or di water

3 make sure you have reeflighting min 3 - 5 watts per gallon

4 have adequate circulation tank volume 6x per hour

5 once the tank is cycled do regular waterchanges 15% 1x per mon and regular

additions of kalk ie all evaporation

6 don't add any other "supplements

7 don't fall into the trap of information overload pick one method and go with

it resist trying a little of this and a little of that

8 patience... patience... patience. once you have the first cycle then add the

remaining creatures and then beginning the monthly maintenance THATS when the magic happens you'll see. however don't try and accelerate it. Id venture a guess you tank is under one month old maybe 3 weeks because it hasn't cycled. Anything that's dead created ammonia that need to be removed by the natural biological process and what your experiencing is the magic beginning to take place. Ie -- a reef balancing out in your home your tank WILL look as awesome as others but patience and sticking to one school of thought is key to begin. One this happens , you will get your own *experience* as to what takes place and develop your own feel. But like everything else its a process so be patient

As a pretty fair guess, Id say you should have approx 30% of water volume do you have room for more live rock?

that's a huge controversial topic. My opinion is to use a min of 1 lb to max of 1.75 lb of live rock.I haven't been an advocate of sand as my system uses raised eggcrate wit a spray bar in the lower rear. However, my opinion on sand is changing. One can of course have sand, but IME using more than 2 lbs per gall may make the system too biologically dense. I feel a 2 lb per gal max of sand & rock to be a safe limit. Think about it... how much is too much? a tank full of sand & rock. Using more than 2 lbs per gal may lead to accumulated waste creating a food source for microalgae.

I never bother with dead rock or base rock. Use all live rock. Using eggcrate, one maximizes the display w/o the need to build up with un-necessary waste accumulating base rock

Depends on your budget. If money is no object use all live sand. If your trying to be somewhat conservative use  50/50 aragonite on the bottom live on top. Is all live sand necessary? no Is all live sand better? not necessarily. 50/50 is fine

I would calculate how many lbs of sand you plan to use then make the balance up with live rock while trying not to overshoot the 2 lbs per gal.

I havent actually purchased live rock in several years, however, probably the most popular rock is still fiji- followed by tonga. Your situation 75 * 1.5 = 112.5 - 64 = 48.5 or about 1 box. One thing you have to be very careful about is not to cycle the new rock in your tank if you have any livestock in it. Purchased rock (even if its claimed to be cured) will still cycle ie ammonia spike. If you have only rock in the tank now then you can use your tank. If you have livestock- fish,corals,crabs,starfish etc. you really should cure the rock yourself in a new plastic garbage can until the is no ammonia or nitrite. Another thing to be careful of is stacking the rock. Id suggest the new rock you buy to be large pieces or even better branch rock that will help to minimize stacking.

[readers]

I don't really think you did too much, if anything wrong (for long term) I know I speak strongly recommending the egg crate and no sand... but that's just my experience and that of my associates. As I've said quoted from my IRC talk "I would first like to say that if there is anything I have learned from talking to hundreds of reefkeepers is that there are as many ways to set-up and maintain a reef tank as there are people doing it. I have truly been amazed with the drastically different approaches. Believe it or not, some today refuse to use protein skimming or purified tap water or kalkwasser. When I would mention the potential problems they would respond “ hey I have had this running for X years and everything is thriving so why should switch methods now?” How can you argue with that? Of course I have not actually seen their tanks. My point here is, there are many, many approaches to a reef aquarium and I also have my own which has worked very well for me."

well don't get too discouraged

yes... providing you go with the creatures I recommended in previous email (below) again from my talk For the beginner I would strongly recommend to have an idea of what type of livestock you plan to keep. This will have the largest long term factor dictating the remainder of your decisions. Also note in a reef tank live rock plays the largest stocking role I use and recommend 1.5 to 1.75 lb. per gallon. The live rock itself is not extremely light hungry. Inverts Next is invertebrates, Crabs such as decorator, hermit, arrowhead, small horseshoe are all hardy additions to the tank . Shrimp ... coral banded, scarlet cleaners, red fire are all beautiful easy to keep creatures. Urchins, pencil, pincushion are very interesting and hardy. Starfish, brittle chocolate chip, serpent stars are easy to keep also. Algae eating snails such as Astra/ Turbo in sufficient # are a must for algae management. Note these above creatures are not high light requiring. Anemones are photosynthetic and there is a concern for them moving around in the tank possibly stinging corals. If you would like to keep some of these, select the relatively stationary variety. Tube anemones move very little and are beautiful as are the common rock anemones (not apitasta) . The common rock anemone( the scientific name eludes me rite now...) are fairly large 3 to 4 in dia greenish in color and relatively flat they are inexpensive, stationary, very hardy and beautiful. I have found the light requirements for these above creatures to be within the 3 to 5 watts per gallon range. Corals Your selection of corals will have the largest impact on light requirements. Here is a list of low to medium light corals that are hardy and relatively easy to keep. Note low to medium light=3 to 5 watts per gall. All the mushrooms, open brain, branch soft coral, elegance, false brain, leather, finger coral, star polyp, red/green polyp. If you need to know the scientific names of the above I would recommend a good coral identification book such as.. A Practical Guide to Corals by Ed Puterbaugh and Eric Borneman. All of the above corals I would recommend to the beginner. These corals will demand a modest amount of lighting some where in the 3 to 5 watts per gallon range. Fish Finally, fish should be added, in the smallest numbers. They are the largest consumers of food, and therefore produce the most waste. Having only a few fish will mean that you will be putting in less commercial food. This reduces the risk of food going uneaten and accumulating in the prefilter, possibly becoming food for algae and/or leading to diminished water quality. Your fish should be reef-compatible only; that is, they should eat algae but not coral. Here are a few very common reef fish I would recommend Yellow tang, sailfin Desjardini, hippo tang a.k.a.: surgeon fish. Angels, flame, resplendent, coral beauty. Blennies/Gobies such as bar goby, lizard sand goby, algae blennies,flame goby, flashing tile goby, forktail blenny, barber post gobies. Clowns, maroon, tomato, percula are hardy although if they don't have a host anemone they can sometimes try and substitute one of your corals. Chromis/Damsels are the easiest to keep...yellow tail damsel, electric blue, Fiji, Starks, Domino are all suitable although in a small tank they can be territorial. Other fish such as hawkfish, flame hawk, long nose hawk, marine bettas, pearly jawfish, gold neon gobies are all good.

sure... go with the corals I recommended in a previous email What types of low-light corals are you talking about? I think really the question is how may WPG (watts per gallon) you have a minimum of 2-3 should be sufficient for the below species. One main point is to be sure the bulbs are new... and good quality ie: reef lighting from previous email "all mushrooms, bubble coral,ricordia, flower anemone aka anthraplura anemone EXCELLENT animal and cheap!,all polyps,leather coral aka sacropothyn,colt coral,sun coral, tounge coral aka slipper,candycane aka trumphet,definitely elegance RECOMMENDED!! that should fill your tank up"

Thanks and let me know how you make out best Regards Robert

yes... me too I have approx 1/2 of it done and it should be complete this fall. A few things that you may be interested in. I've compiled a diskette that accompanies the current book this can be downloaded from my site http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/user/disk.html also if you have any pictures of your tank I can host a web page for you. Look at stanks.htm or of course my survey at the bottom link

There will also be a CD included in the new edition.

Thank you very much. I do consider myself a very personable fellow and one who attempts to simplify a hobby that can be made very complicated.

I have a question/comment re. the book and it's availability.  Being a "cheap Bastard" (hence my buying your book), I tried the on-line book store "Amazon.com" to try and shave a few bucks.  It was not available through them. Is it avail. through any other discount operations?

No, the book will not be offered at discounts unless it gets bought completely from me. I do offer dealers discounts but Amazon has not yet asked about it and frankly I don't have the time or patience to deal with them.

Most definitely

I have been working on a revised edition of SRK which will reflect my current mindset regarding different types of tank setups such as refugia, thick sand beds, as well as current techniques. It will also include a fairly large tips section guaranteed to save you money. This section alone would be worth the cost of the book! A 20+ page Q&A will reflect the questions I have received in the past 18 months. Just about every image in the current book will be redone & improved. The DIY will include a poor mans chiller, calcium reactor & downdraft skimmer. The current preview text is located at bookrevu.htm. Also I am offering a separate update package for FREE including all the new text and images to anyone who currently has the book and returns the enclosed questionnaire in the SASE. The update version will be approx 70 + pages. There will be other significant improvements that I cannot discuss at this time but will definitely enhance the value of the book. At this time I cannot say exactly when it will be complete. I will say it should be done in the near future. SRK is geared toward the beginner although I'm quite sure anyone in the hobby will pick up some new ideas to make the book worth having. I believe I will be much more aggressive when the new version is complete. Its a long story but basically I wrote/produced/ and published the book myself. The new version will be very up to date complete and then it will be a closed case for me.

Thank You very much! and I'm sorry It took a so long to get back to you.

grin yes well... online you will get *allot* of opinions. I try to focus on what I know, have learned, and has worked well.

Thank You Ian.

check out these links and if  i wasn't clear here just ask luck and I enjoyed talking to you as well

Very good.. Thanks!

Yes I understand.... the online community has turned me off with all their debate, controversy and argumentiveness.

I'm happy to do it. You seem like a sincere fellow and that is really the reason I've taken on writing my book in the first place. If you haven't already I offer you to peruse my site there is a wealth of info there and it may be advantageous to complete my survey. This give me and others you contact with a reference for your tank. Be patient.. you tank is well underway

I don't belive I said that Its always liverock cycle- inverts cycle- corals cycle-  fish can you show me the mail where I said differently?

no quoted from my -Meet the author- "By no means do I consider my opinions and methods in the text as the only way to approach a reef aquarium, nor do I ever claim to have all the answers, or lastly consider myself an "expert". I do however claim to be a successful reefkeeper and an advanced over the edge experienced hobbyist, someone who has accumulated substantial, practical information.

The text has been put it together in a complete, easy to understand format, something I feel that has up until now, has been missing in this hobby. My readers have confirmed this personal belief. "

I'm glad your reading it. I'm sure it will help avoid potential problems or at least give you some useful tips, guidelines and ideas to go further. Let me know how its going, or if you have any questions

well, I'm glad you listened. As you can see (and now have your own experience...) patience and letting nature do its work are the best advise and really carries through more advanced aspects of the hobby; although companies like to have a carrot in from of the hobbyist with a new product to further their businesses promising better conditions etc. You'd be surprised that many hobbyists *like* to spend money! That's never my recommendation and turns off the big $penders

[test kits]

no

yes  those are mainly lower  "hobbyist" grade

Id recommend Salifert best quality for the money

You don't *really* need either one. Your salinity shouldn't change very much, not enough to be monitored. It will change slightly with evaporation, but you will be adding top off water to make up for that. The pH meter is nice to have... but the probe dosnt last long (6 months) and they cost around $60 to replace. One pitfall here, is to be monitoring and reacting to the readings. My advise is to react to the tests very slowly. Therefore the electronic meters are really just a luxury.Having said that the manufacturer Pinpoint probably are the oldest and most used by hobbyists.

[algae]

that's fairly typical of cycling don't sweat it for now. If you wanted you can remove it by dislodging with a bottle brush

yes, use a bottle brush to swirl it out. You say your readings of phosphate are very low now and that you removed all the substrate... once you do a bunch of water changes the algae should subside. some how I get the feeling that the original water *may* somehow be contributing to the problem. Call me a cynic or what ever... but the problem you describe sure sounds like it.You have removed all the substrate (and I'm sure done some water changes) used carbon to remove suspect algae causes skimmer is producing... and you have filament algae! kind of points to the water. (or old light bulbs) Anyway, some well water is not so good I've used well water for a long time and along with a commercial DI unit, it does a number on the resin. You will see what happens when you set up your ro unit.

I think the 360 range isn't bad... especially if you don't have a high calcium demand. KAlkwasser is very good to add, and a low cost alternative is Pickling lime used for canning. Ask for it in your local food stores or you can order it directly. It is food grade calcium hydroxide same thing as reef kalk the difference is the lime is $1.49 per lb a case of approx 12 lbs will cost around 24 shipping included.

Are you using ro or di water? That is usually a source of phosphate

sounds like the tap water to me

Possible, but again I'm more inclined to think of the source water. Its best to of course limit all potential algae causes as the problem usually becomes worse.

yes phosphates = algae phosphate in significant numbers primarily comes from uneaten food, overfeeding or substantial decomposing organic material. however phosphate in low #s is common in a tank

It sounds like your tank hasnt completely cycled yet. When its complete you'll have zero nitrite & zero ammonia When that happens do a 30% water change with ro or di water and you should be all set.

That all sounds wonderful!

No its not dying at all. I would suspect a temporary adjustment of cycling.

In the mean time, you should get a bottle brush (new) and use it in a swirling motion to dislodge and remove the algae. This will keep it at bay untill the conditions balance. A more common algae that occurs (after cycling) is the common brown diatom. This is just a coating on the glass and need to be removed via strong magnets. The brown diaton is a thin powdery coating, and for most people unavoidable. You just have to clean the glass weekly. It should not however noticeably cover the rock- you should remove it with the bottle brush method

[tap water purification]

yes absolutely. In fact distilled is the most pure however also most difficult to obtain. If you have a good supply then you're all set

What brand of substrate was that? Humm..

The only single DI unit I know of is by Ultralife. Its a commercial grade that sells for about $200 buy IME well  worth it. Look for ultralife online

[mangrove filtration]

I personally don't  have any. I was planning to get some for my refugia but never followed through with it.

I am considering some in my sump. I have heard that the roots tend to get pretty complicated and wanted to know your experience.

From what I understand, Mangroves are similar to algae filtration. And they do work. although I don't know how experienced you are,but somewhat feel they are for more advanced hobbyists. Recently, in the past 4 to 6 months they have become in demand by people who want to experiment with alternative filtration.

[additives]

no I don't recommend it. If you want to use any charcoal its best to use it: sparingly infrequently not for extended periods of time and in the sump (so its easily removed)

Its better if you don't, really there is no advantage of doing this but its a possibility to lessen the effectiveness of the kalkwasser. My advise is to mix the kalk separately and use it. Then add strontium separately.

[eggcrate]

The material is known as light diffuser material and used in suspended ceilings. Available in 2x4 ft sections. White is the common color found. But black is the ideal color for aquarium use. Black is very hard to find, you have to look in the yellow pages under sheets tubes and rods. Or on my website I have a supplier Modern Plastics who will ship black eggcrate anywhere. The information is in my FAQ. Any other questions please feel free to write. This week I'm out of town again but have online access next week things should be back to normal

You could use plastic dowels stuck into the eggcrate and rest the rock on that. I've never used the actual fastening method. My approach is to simply & carefully stack to rock so the upper piece rests on the piece below. The zip cabling of rock was Earls idea Personally I don't think its needed unless you wanted to do something very elaborate, which I don suspect is the case. Id be very interested in seeing the pictures

[pumps]

Where have you looked?I'm sure there are plenty of skimmers available that can accommodate a large pump here is one page  http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/links/themeindex.html look under suppliers ... Reefers (Brian Griffin) or Northcoast (Marc Desatnik) either of those guys will help you pick a skimmer. Both guys are knowledgable and I buy supplies from them.

[maintenance]

Use a smaller hose. If you look carefully in LFS you can find  nice *small* gravel cleaners with an approximate 5/16 dia hose. Pinching the hose will also give you some control, even if you just use small dia clear vinyl tubing by itself will clean the nooks and crannies.Of course, if you only want to remove detritus you can strain the water coming out through some filter floss in to a 5 gallon bucket and pour the water back in.A magnum would also work... but its one more thing to maintain, the clips...O-rings etc

[plumbing]

very observant of a very poor picture [that one as well a all the others are getting redone] but yes it could be used for that although that's over my dripplate / prefilter so I put the airline in another bulkhead rite above the skimmer.That bulkhead is really used for water changes so I just pump my new water into that area. Also note that if you do drip kalk in the prefilter it will clog it fairly quickly and if left un attended will clog entirely. Tell me what size tank you have

It should be. I have a 10 gall on a 200 and it does well. I'm sure a 5 would be nice.Make it just as I explain in the book, all your troubleshooting is in there.I'm very interested in your results implementing the surge device

yes, it should be. I have 4 on my 200 and only use 34 was overkill but I was playing on the safe side. Keep in mind you can always turn them down via a valve but its difficult to add later

what I did was add a 90 coming out of the back of the bulkhead... pointing downward looking at the front of the tank...with the sump on the left side... the bulkhead on the extreme right has just a 90 going into the end of the slightly angled main drain... the next bulkhead has a downward pointing 90 with a 1/2" piece of tubing then going into a T the "center" bulkhead has a 90 with a slightly longer piece of tubing say 3/4" then they get incrementally longer as it gets near the sump. Id say its important to do that. It will keep air pockets from forming and keep the water flowing naturally. You really need to have an open air space in the pipe to avoid pockets and insuring a good flow. If you need a further explanation give me a time and day to call

you could probably remedy that by simply inserting a length of flexible hose going inside the jug above the waterline, then "venting" out

sounds like a good idea some things that caught my attention you're going to have to "wrestle" with this 5 gall container?? flipping it upside down etc? wont it take up allot of room sitting in the sump? those water jugs are pretty tall...and having a relatively open sump will increase evaporation will this makeup water have kalkwasser in it? one should be adding kalk via makeup. Not saying your idea is ng, just from a standpoint that "been there.. done that" I've tried I'd say just about every easy way.... and found that the ole 5 gall above the sump with the source water supply close by is the easiest way to go. belive me after a few years 9+ it gets to be a chore...

well its a 55 gallon tank and approx 15 gal sump your 6x36" sounds like it would do the job nicely

that's more than enough, but probably what I would do. I have 5 1.5" on my 200 and really only use 4 nevertheless Its better to err on the safe side.

yes all the bulkheads go into one relatively horizontal slightly angled toward the sump. You use a T to tie into it

why 2"? if you're using 1.5" you could use the same for the main drain tube. Obviously 2" would have a better flow but the adapters etc arent really worth it. 1.5" is fine

Is it that bad? a very good alternative is to use grey pvc that blends in much better

not really because they are so high up and having rock up that high can sometimes inhibit water flow

about 1/3 to 1/2 way up the fitting You should be able to adjust the water flow with the fittings

the water line should be high enough so as to be above the front trim of the tank In other words you don't see the water line unless you look at the tank from the top

yes! very observant!!

You never say what size tank. IF you did I forgot.. sorry up to a 55 1" or 1/1/4" is good above a 55 definitely use 1 1/2"

My 200 does 1200gph through 1.5" *effortlessly* the main concern is to have the pipe vented. I have a crude drawing showing the location of the vent. You then buy a fitting called a "no-vent" about $2 and use that as a nice cap. the internals of the no-vent come out  as you don't need then have a look at sumpdiag.gif

[testing]

oxygen redox potential simply put its a measurement of the amount of oxygen in the water. For most  hobbyists running a modern reef aquarium with good skimming ORP is rarely an issue, although it does have merit for those who prefer things on a more complicated level. IME its not necessary Robert

its best to drip in on/near the intake of the skimmer

your not really going to have any nitrite until the ammonia is complete and your not going to have nitrate until nitrite is complete

how high? I wouldn't worry about it rite now

that's rite, sometimes liverock takes a LONG time to cycle. Just be thankful you have nothing else in the tank

Id guess within one week

[suppliers]

yes he's good  fellow and  provides *fast* service

I wouldn't say I was *affiliated* however I use 2 people / stores online one is Reefers Brian Griffen- the other is NorthCoast Marc DeSatnic both can be found from my links page. Both stores have very good prices, speed of delivery, and service.

I've responded  regarding refers and northcoast on my links page email or call them both are very personable

sounds good

[filtration]

well I really wouldn't go through the trouble for a 30 something gallon tank you should be fine with the setup you have. The person who has a similar filtration is located here http://www.connix.com/~scooter she has a 125 but similar filtration the tank is awesome. Her & I became friends and I've actually visited her, saw the filtration and shook my head is disbelief, however the tank speaks for its self. ( i did manage to get her to ditch her fluidiadisied bed filter though ) also be warned she has all images on one page so it takes awhile to load

well frankly I don't really like the seastorm or biowheel. However a good friend of mine has a setup similar to yours and the tank looks great so Id say its ok

well allot of people like the tank to be awesome looking, no unsightly equipment, and quiet. My personal theory is reef tanks need allot of circulation ie air induction via high turnover  this usually make *my* tanks on the loud side. and frankly all the really nice tanks I've seen (large) are either noisy or have a room behind the tank to place equipment & noise. So I cant really tell you much there. My 200 gall with a 45 gal sump and 55 gall refugia is about 15 ft away in my office and when I'm on the phone people can hear it running! Not something id like to recommend but at least I know my tanks water is turned over. Also.... after a while you'll get used to it.

well frankly I don't really like the seastorm or biowheel. However a good friend of mine has a setup similar to yours and the tank looks great so Id say its ok

The 10% suggestion is overkill toward the safe side. You can easily remove 30% without any problems. It may cause a *tiny* cycle but will be gone in a day or so. 10% is virtually seamless.

I don't think I see what size tank you have but a sump is a good idea. Its really hard to work around a problem... although A sump is a good idea. I wish I could tell you more. I suppose that would mean either drilling the tank or buying a overflow box to drain into the sump. Then use the eheim to pump back into the tank.Oh! Are you using a protein skimmer? THAT is *very*  important. Some how I don't see it incorporated in your system. Also for what its worth... There is another fellow in Canada who has won my book. His name is Chad Becker you may want to mail him and network a bit about suppliers in canada etc. his website is http://tor-pw1.netcom.ca/~becker/frames.html and his mail mailto:becker@aei.ca He is a nice fellow and experienced a total crash due to the bad ice storm up there, but the tank is recovering nicely. I think he would like to hear from a fellow Canadian reefer

You could use it as the main pump.. but I would not have *any* media inside as this will end up at some point producing nitrate as well as being difficult to maintain. I know Eheims are top of the line but IMO not for a reef (although they are good pumps). If you do use a mechanical prefilter and don't have a sump you could fashion some porous sponge near the intake of the pump and change that. Of course its not the ideal set up... best to have a sump box, an old trickle filter without the media.

You have a wet dry filter? That's where the nitrates are coming from. In a modern reef aquarium nitrification & denitrification are done completely with live rock. Using 1.5 - 1.75lbs of liverock per gallon and no wet dry filter one will experience virtually zero, or very very low nitrates.

A wetdry is considered a "nitrate factory" in the reef hobby. A Jaubert system primarily employs a thick sand bed for nitrification & denitrification and as far as I know doesn't use a wet dry or trickle filter of any kind. Ideally you could transform your setup remove the media and just use the box as a sump to collect water, feed the skimmer etc.

Basic principals of reef keeping are proper amount of liverock reeflighting strong skimming good turnover of the tanks water volume ie: min 6x per hour absence of internal media ie: bioballs etc. photosynthetic livestock

no..I'm amazed you have no fish and nitrate level... strange

Most corals take up nitrate especially the photosynthetic species. You really cant overstock corals (as far as nitrate / waste goes) the waste they put out is minimal.

oxygenation is most important. Getting allot of air into the water.MOst times this is limited by hang on type skimmers. Controlling waterflow is another point as is a place to drip in kalkwasser pump in water for waterchanges etc. Sumpless can be done but using a sump is most convent.. Sounds like your tank is doing very well

[make-up water]

Let me see if I have this right.  The kalkwasser drips into the sump right above where the water leaves the sump to the skimmer.

yes, in front of the skimmers pump

excellent!! that... is the best way to go!

Ok if you're following my sump procedure, there are 2 pumps. One is for the skimmer the other for the main return back to the tank. THe Kalkwasser is most effective if you drip it in near the skimmers pump intake, so the kalk pretty much gets rite into the skimmer. The calcium rich water binds and removes / exports phosphate better. You don't have to be fanatical about it but just try and get it close to the skimmers intake pump.

no, the water comes *from* the skimmer and then *through* the prefilter so the dripped kalk would be before the skimmer

The amount of evaporation in a tank can be very difficult to estimate as so many factors come into play such as ambient room temp. Your tank will evaporate more in the summer months amount of air circulation around the tank. If you have fans in the hood circulation will be more amount of water flow (pumps) increased water movement will increase evaporation Covering the tank with glass or plexi covers minimizes evaporation and is not really a good thing. Some hobbyists who like to keep their calcium levels up due to having *high* calcium demanding creatures such as stony corals and hard corals will force evaporation by placing large fans like a 20" room fan over their sump. This way the evaporation is very high and calcium additions can be made by adding kalkwasser. In my 200 during the summer I evaporation around 15 gallons per week. In the winter around 10 gallons This is with 2 4" fans in the hood and 2 1200gph little giant pumps one for the main and one for the skimmer (ETS) My calcium is around 375 - 400 which may be low for some folks but does well for me. My suggestions have the tank uncovered use the 6x per hour water turn over rate use fans in the hood and then just keep track of what you evaporate oh yes... add kalkwasser for all make up water as I describe. Use the 5 gall bucket and powerhead with airline siphon above the sump btw... you can use the balls pickling lime as an inexpensive alternative to kalkwasser $1.49 lb The source is located on my faq but if you like I can dig it out for you

[DIY]

excellent! I take it the price was fair?

They are basically both the same the difference is consistency very thin (water) to fairly thick (airplane glue) The glues cost is insignificant about $3 ea. and one container will last most people a lifetime.You can get it direct from a wholesaler Modern Plastics in CT look at my main FAQ and search for modern...ok their # is 1-800-243-9696 ask for Raul Flores they have all the glue black eggcrate black plexi etc.

Not really plans basically principals the new version will describe in a fair detail different systems

[feeding]

Yes it is very common.CBS are normally non threatening to the reef tank, are *extremely* hardy and beautiful. I would venture a guess that the shrimp was underfed, do you feed the tank? Most folks are careful not to over feed as the uneaten food can decompose and become nutrients for algae. However, you have to take into consideration the scavengers in the tank hermits coral banded cleaners etc.So, it can be a fine line keeping the tank properly fed without overdoing it. There is a recipe on the net by Sanjay Joshi that is *fabulous* to use here is a clip from the new version of my book, keep in mind its not polished yet  but definitely tells you what you need.

· Go to a oriental food store and buy some nori (seaweed in sheets) unseasoned.
· From your favorite food store buy 1/4 lb. of fresh ea. of  squid, clams, mussels, fish filleted, scallops, shrimp.
· Put the seafood in a blender and puree adding water to get a consistency of thick soup.
· Then take 2 or 3 sheets of nori cut into one inch strips and add to the blender, add more water to maintain the thick soup consistency.
· Then simply put about 3 tablespoons into a small sandwich bag, repeat until you use all the mix.
·  Double bag the excesses and freeze. when you want to feed break off one third of the bag defrost slightly then add it to the tank.

I like to use a piece of plastic gutter guard shaped into a small cup, held together with cable ties. This makes a nice dispenser just add the mix to the holder and swish. The food is wonderful. Also nori is a good food for herbivores by itself and if you want to go further add a product called selcon. A vitamin mix for fish
If you have soft corals you will immediately notice a difference and I'm sure all your inhabitants will appreciate it. I wouldn't rule out CBS. It *is* possible you have a unusual aggressive one, but I suspect he is just hungry. Another highly recommended shrimp is the cleaner shrimp they are very nice ask for scarlet cleaners. they look like this http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/shrimp.jpg Definitely try the recipe and let me know how your tank likes it!

[cycling]

yes - don't add anything... until the cycle is complete ie ammonia to nitrite to nitrate then do a 15% waterchange and begin to drip kalk and that all you really add providing you do fairly regular waterchanges ie  15% 1x per mon

no, cycling rock will usually kill any type of creature

if you have an established 30 and you're just adding creatures [no rock] the cycle should be minimized I would use that route.

what do you mean the tank has cycled? If you have -say... some sand and a few fish... the tank is *only * cycled to that bioload. when you add say 50 lbs of rock it has to cycle to that new bioload. I recommend to add ALL the liverock before livestock as the liverock sometimes goes through a nasty cycle period. Don't worry about it though it will all balance out and ammonia/nitrite will be zero. Then you don't have to worry about cycling again.

NO!

don't waste your money. It will all cycle in time probably within a week. The additive or canned bacterial source aren't worth the material their packaged in.

Very good approach

don't ADD ANYTHING! you don't need it and will cause the imbalance your seeing. Just let it happen and it will happen I promise you

You will have a cycle anytime you add new livestock. However, if you add one or 2 fish to an existing tank the cycle will not be noticeable. But if you add 10 fish you will definitely have a significant cycle.Or liverock because it has so much dieoff usually produces a cycle. If you have a fish only tank or a reef for that matter as long as you add livestock *gradually* the tank will be able to adjust fairly quickly. here is a page about cycling 8.htm and another cycling.htm Basically add your livestock gradually Hope that helps

if you have an established 30 and you're just adding creatures [no rock] the cycle should be minimized I would use that route.

No.... but nevertheless nothing should be nothing. hehehe I see your a bit anxious about getting the reef going but when I said "don't add anything" I was implying really, just let it be and you would see the unfolding of cycling. *balance* is key! so even raising salinity might have thrown the bacteria for a loop. As you can see your ammonia is about to be gone and a full cycle imminent

theoretically you could use it all. Usually a 15-20 % wc is done

very good question. My experience would be to use at least 1/2 of the old water

  Don't this and the two skimmers provide enough water flow/oxygenation?  If not can't I just add more power heads? its possible I suppose. Powerheads have the tendency to suck in creatures though.

yes their nice aka pink tip

and how much a problem that is going to be and what i can do to make it easier. its a fairly big deal. of course it depends on how far you re moving. Across town or the state probably wouldn't be too bad (although you have to be prepared) moving where you have to ship via plane is another story here is some info on the subject http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/n/moving.htm

The other problem is there a guaranteed way to kill "ich" without destroying the coral or life on the coral. I've lost many a fish (purple tang, copper banded butterfly, another butterfly that ate my urchin) and one more, one simple answer [cleaner shrimp] you should have 3 or so they take care of ick pronto and are really nice creatures see http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/shrimp.jpg you really must look into *why* you re getting ich... sounds like temperature swings

apitasta anemone. Yes they multiply easily but mainly occur in poor conditions ie:lighting and water

Yet i have seen no indication that there striving at all except for spider like pouches close by. not feather duster eggs actual spider looking pouches? any ideas or comments. For the amount of time it took to find your site or sorry a Excellent quality site as yours was to me i do appreciate your time in your page and I will be ordering the book sometime this coming year for myself, (xmas being a bad time for $) hehehehe, also because i live in canada and it is hard to get "good" shipments in, is there anything i can do to ensure safety or growth from products here. there is a company that deals with shipping and reef supplies to ca see http://www.mops.on.ca/ the fellows name is Dean Thanks for your comments, you can find *allot* of info on my site Good Luck with your tank

oh sure- their really nice

 At the store he was scooting about the sand, convincing me of his services provided, but so far in my tank he has done nothing but swim around almost 2/3's of the way UP in my tank.  I am praying he will relocate.  What do you think? "sand sifting" creatures are good in theory, some do better than others. FME probably 2-3 in 10 do a good job. You just never know. I also believe "sand sifting" is a concept dreamed up by proponents of live sand, responding to the problem of calcification of live sand and in theory it sounds good "oh-just throw in some sand sifters". Believe me sand sifters gobies in particular are the least reliable. Nevertheless are nice fish.

For good sand sifting probably the best are black cucumbers. They are very ugly resembling a 1 to 2 in turd. (for lack of a better word you'll know one when you see it though) fortunately they stay buried in the sand. Next are small bristle worms that occur in sand either naturally (come with the sand) or migrate from your liverock. After a period of time you'll observe these worms between the glass and sand. What should happen is... micro and macro organisms will migrate from your liverock and begin to inhabit the sand, so... again patience. This migration really takes awhile. Its also possible your sand is lacking food for the goby so its not sifting for food. Id say you need to give the sand around 6 Mon. to really become "live" in your tank. Not to worry.

Thank you, and if it all possible, a speedy reply would be greatly appreciated so that I may have a chance at returning the specimen. I'll keep you updated on my reef adventure.  Thanks for all of your help and advice. I would keep the goby. Can you take some pictures of your tank? Id be interested in seeing it. They don't have to be spectacular so don't worry if they aren't perfect. If you do have pictures you could either email them if their scanned of send me the photos themselves and Ill scan them. I think it be gratifying to see your tank. Anyway, I'm glad your tank is doing well. Please continue the patience and keep me posted on the progress.

sorry for the delay here I'm in the process of moving. Use the suggested food recipe.

Great.. see what you can do Its very gratifying for me to *see* peoples tanks especially long distance!

I'm sure by now you've determined their condition. Much of the time... shipped animals some do better than others. Its very strange but I suppose it their general health from being transported from the wild.

I look forward to your reply and please take your time.  I have a five day life guarantee on these specimens and if they die all I have to do is call Flying Fish Express and they send me another completely free of charge.  Thanks. 5 days is pretty generous! I hope its all working out for you everything sounds good! I've got allot of stuff happening here moving/packing etc... My mail address will be the same so the move should be transparent from a online perspective

throw the test kit away! your tank is fine. Just keep on with what your doing and it do great. No buffer Add kalk for all makeup water do regular waterchanges keep your lighting up to par (new lamps when needed 6 mon) that's it .

don't worry about that either You tank has millions of nitrosomas that will quickly envelope a dead carcass in a whitish cacoon. It will be history shortly. Size and ration of tank volume and size of the decomposing creature have to do with if the bacteria could process it. If you threw a steak in there then the tank would get fouled... but... the bacterial would break it down. Your tiny goby carcass is trivial in the scheme of things (your tank)

Great! I'm *really glad* to hear your tank is doing well. NOW.... you know whats next? ENJOY IT! and what ever you do don't try and make it any better by adding buffers or reading some nonsense of tweaking the tank. Just do the above and enjoy the  tank. God knows you worked hard enough for it.

Thank you very much. Its very gratifying to hear that.

Well, one of the most perplexing things I've come across is that people report different behavior from the same species. In my experience and much of what other agree on is that the blues grow *much* slower than the red (scarlet) thereby giving them less of an appetite, particularly a carnivorous appetite. I don't think you will find any one claiming that reds are passive simply because they do grow large and relatively quick. They need larger shells and if the shells aren't provided for them they will rip snails from their shells. So my observation is blues grow slower thereby needing shells less often. reds grow much faster, have a voracious appetite and need to change shells much more frequently. Some would think a simple remedy to provide shells on a regular basis... however this just encourages rapid growth So I would recommend the blues and let nature take its course as far as them desiring a shell that's occupied by a living snail. One point that may be true is the blue hermits that FFE has my all be of the same age thereby making them see aggressive but what they really need a a shell that they can liver in for probably nine months of so. Hope this help you and good luck with your tank. If you have any pictures feel free to send them to me and I'll put them up on my website.

I cant really say exactly what your problem is.. but it seems connected to adding the Dkh. What product was that? What I would do is, 1) don't over react (it may seem bad but will probably work its self out)

get a good grade charcoal and place a fair amount (Id say 8 to 10 oz per

55 gal) in the flow of water.

That should strip most nutrients causing the algae. Id use it for about

a week changing every other day, discarded what you've used.

2) be sure your regular TWP is up to date RO DI resin etc.

3) perform regular waterchanges. This will keep the pH stable Your doing

waterchanges.. correct?

4) note any other recent changes

5) make sure your lighting is up to date (new bulbs etc.)

6) be sure you don't have anything ... dead in the tank ;)

Just do everything gradually, check the above. Ill bet one of the

suggestions here will help your tanks condition.

Hello! I was just wondering if you have had any problems keeping your chocolate chip starfish in your reef tank. I have read that they do not make suitable reef tank companions. I am currently adding corals to my tank which has had a chocolate chip starfish living in to for several months and was wondering if he will be OK. Thanks and your tank looks great. Personally I've never had problems, although some people do. One thing that always amazed me is that being online your connected to *allot* of people many who report completely different observations/behavior of livestock. Chocolate chips can get around pretty quick in the tank- but usually you can somewhat see where they've been (if they caused any damage) I've always enjoyed the CC stars and they've done well in my tanks, of course that doesn't mean they will do well in yours and I cant guarantee that wont cause any damage. If you like them and are willing to take a risk until your satisfied they're safe, they at least give them a try. Of course to be totally safe you'd get another tank

[pests]

Some peppermint shrimp will eat aiptasias, not all though. One sure fire method to control them is pasted in below from my book. How do you rid your tank of glass anemones? A friend of mine purchased a creature that supposedly eats them. It sounds like your friend has purchased a nudibranch. I have heard from many people that they are so small they disappear in the tank. What I'm about to tell you may seem unsafe but I assure you it is very safe and works extremely well. Here is what you do

• ·o to a grocery store and purchase Red Devil Lye (make sure its Red Devil)

• Get a 3 cc syringe no needle just the plastic syringe larger than 3cc is even better if you can find a 6 or 10cc even better.

• Find these at the pharmacy or from a vet you only need one.

• Get a small container with a airtight lid a used fish food container works well.

• Lets say you have a 2 oz dry weight fish food container rinse it out and fill with 3.4 water. I use DI water.

• Then add 3/4 teaspoon o the red devil lye (be careful its nasty chemical) stir with a spoon or other utensil or put the air tight top on and shake (be careful if you shake it and make sure the lid is on tight).

• Then simply fill the syringe with the mix and go to the apitasta it a small squirt it doesn't take much

• Next...repeat as needed.

Sometimes its helpful to give then a little nudge with the syringe so they retract in the rock where the lethal dose can be more effective. When you do this you'll notice a whitish glob like substance, that's the lye reacting with the salt water. Merely swoosh this away with your hand and of course you do not what any of this landing on your corals. A little practice and common sense and you'll have this method down in no time at all. I have found that this works the best. Next would be to get one or two peppermint shrimp not cleaners or camel backs but peppermint shrimp they are known to do a fair job as well...although some do and some don't. Last and most drastic for a tank that is completely overrun you will have to get a copperband butterfly fish. Most copperbands will eradicate the apitasta however, they may also eat any feather dusters or possibly soft corals. Again some creatures do a great job some don't do as well, you just have to try and see for yourself.

Yes- from an overall view of most peoples skills and level of practicality (error tolerance) and cost-- epoxy coated marine plywood is $ for $ stronger easier to work with and less expensive. Having been in the hobby for longer than Id like to admit and having built fish tanks skimmers sumps tower filters etc. . the first choice is prefab... something not necessarily designed for the task but will work and be cost effective. second is wood and glass 3rd and most difficult and costly is all acrylic. The risk of error (read leaks) is very high as are the associated costs with repairing water damage

Well you obviously have much more experience than me but I still am going to build my sump and skimmer from acrylic.

He's got a nice site, the skimmer sure looks worth a try

Thanks again for writing the book. I has already helped my reef tank. Thank you very much Steve, your comments are what makes my endeavor fulfilling

Yes, definitely, you can add all or most of your live rock now (depending on your budget)

Yes you can rely on that and your information is correct. A few pointers... what you're seeing is a "sterile" environment and the only thing that will change that is to add livestock. Of course you probably could change it via chemicals... but that's not why you're in the hobby I would suggest to purchase all you "low end" rock first and perform the initial break-in with that. You have to consider *some* dieoff will inevitably happen, due more so to the ammonia cycle than your somewhat high parameters. So stock your tank in this order-- lesser quality rock first (or the bulk of your rock) If you're adding some "premium" rock add that next Once that all cycles... inverts then coral then fish Don't be alarmed with extremely high ammonia when the liverock cycles. Once that's complete, your tank will be 80% broken in.

As you can imagine, I am rather impatient to get some life in my tank. I appreciate any advice you can offer. I always enjoy from my readers, If you need any more help feel free to write, I'll do what I can to answer your questions. Good luck with your tank

I have recently noticed a few very small clear and some with a streak of brown worm like shrimp like organisms in my tanks I don't know what they are or if they are one of the pest that you have talked about do you have any idea what they are and if so should I be alarmed and what should I do? Actually I have seen both kinds the worm kind and the shrimp looking kind. Concerned...... The small shrimp - bug looking creature is probably a mystis shrimp and excellent for the tank. Fish and corals eat will eat these and as your tank matures you may probably see larger ones (if the fish don't eat them first). As far as the brown worm ... that's sounds like a small bristle worm or other extremely small sand worm. NOthing to worry about as these small worms aerate the sand and rock. The shrimp are most likely mystis or pistol shrimp. Either one is definitely desired in the tank. They look like little bugs.. rite? If you're interested I suggest looking at the tank with a flashlight after the lights have been off for an hour or two. Look very carefully.. and what you'll see will amaze you.

You talk of a spray bar, located at the bottom of a tank, to return water from the sump. What should the spray bar look like and where do you aim it?? I guess you are talking about a length of PVC, with holes drilled into it Exactly. Have a look at http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/earl/earl1.htm also see http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/Eric/eric.htm this is a completed setup. My basic setup recommends having the eggcrate resting on the back of the tank and spraybar at the far back bottom. Earl is using the spraybar under a center framework of liverock.

Where would you aim the water flow coming from the spray bar??? This is actually a method that I devised. Its called the eggcrate setup. Essentially its black eggcrate that's raised off the bottom using horizontal pieces of PVC the spray bar is positioned in such a was as to push water under the eggcrate toward the front of the tank. When the water hits the front glass, it rolls back creating a circular motion. If you were to look at the tank from the side you see the water coming from the spraybar in a clockwise motion... to the overflows located on the back of the tank. Using this method most of the detritus ends up in the front of the tank.

Also Robert, you mention NOT to use any type of sponge to trap particulate matter.... Yes that's correct.. however. THe real concept is to minimize any biological filtration that may occur on these pre filters. I actually do recommend using a prefilter but to clean it regularly. Judging from my survey about 1/2 use some sort of prefilter. A prefilter is beneficial for removing large particulate matter but it does need regular (weekly cleaning) The prefilter material I like to use in the blue floss. (marineland) and cut this to fit under your dripplate.

I have a sponge block over and around the intake pipe of my pre filter/overflow to trap material before entering my sump. What would you use instead of this?? Should I just take it out??? The problem with that is if the filter clogs the tank may overflow, which is why I recommend the prefilter under a type of dripplate in the sump. If it does clog there, usually it will just overflow around the dripplate but still end up in the sump.

Yes that's a problem. My method is to have the skimmer drain to a "clean" side of the sump. You create a partition in the sump. One "dirty" from the tank, and one "clean" from the skimmer. THe water gets returned to the tank from the clean side. Then the only concern for small bubbles is where the water from the skimmer is in relation to the outlet to the return pump. Here some people need a foam "dam" to eliminate micro bubbles

I also use a floss pad in my sump to trap matter before entering my main pump and skimmer pump. Should that be removed ??? yes see above

I don't recommend using activated carbon or xphosphate on a regular basis. You really shouldn't need it. You only use that when its needed (to remove ) an overdose of iodine.. or if something falls in the tank, if the tank is badly neglected and you're trying to recover it. The xphosphate is expensive and if you use an ro/di unit, don't over feed, and have proper reeflighting phosphate should not be a problem. What I'm saying is to correct the problem as to why you have phosphate rather than addressing it by using a chemical sponge. Of if your just using it to be safe... I don't think you need it.

Thats a sea cucumber. They are harmless filter feeders and a good addition to the tank. Usually they will settle in an area with good water flow. They are extremely slow movers. The feeder filters are on the left side of the picture. I'm sorry I havent gotten back to your previous question but I have been out of town. I will try and answer this evening. One side note on this sea cucumber .. some think they are toxic if they die in the tank but I've never had a problem. They are very interesting. Usually they get up to about 4 inches in lenth by 1.25" in diameter. Ill get back to you regarding your previous question

Remember my question about one tank having 2 actinic blue and 2 50/50 and another having 2 actinic blue and 2 full spectrum 6500K?  Well,  I do have both tanks and the one with 50/50 had more algae. That should make no difference with algae

They grow like grass up to 2 or 3 inches in length. Question:  Is the incorrect lighting causing the excessive algae growth?  If so what particular wavelength was lacking? I'm not sure what you mean "full spectrum"? IF its a grow light.. or common over the counter electrical supply house light, then yes possibly the "full spectrum" is causing the problem. But you're saying the opposite... that the 2 actinic blues seem to be causing the algae.

One other question, and a confession as well. For exactly one year and 3 months,  I haven't had any water change (only topped off with fresh water every other day), didn't change any of the lamps, and only occasionally added BIONIC calcium supplement (when I remember to), and all the corals are still alive and blooming!  Question:  How much longer am I going to get away with that? That's not good! you need to change the lighting at least at one year interval, (preferably at 6 months) you "should" be doing regular water changes and you "should" be adding kalkwasser for all evaporation. Personally I dot think you'll get away with it much longer I would recommend changing all the lighting (buy new lamps), get on a regular routine of water changes. And start to add kalkwasser. I understand your thinking "if it works..." but eventually the water quality will just degrade to such a point that you'll have to start over.

I think animals in the tank can slowly adapt to deteriorating conditions but eventually It will catch up. And I think you're just starting to see the effects. Maintenance is required. For example waterchanges... you don't have to change every week, but at least every other month and when you start a schedule, stay with it. No doubt you will see positive effects. On the other hand neglect will have its results as well. You seem to be lucky to go this long.

Exactly. Have a look at http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/earl/earl1.htm also see http://www.simplifiedreefkeeping.com/Eric/eric.htm this is a completed setup. My basic setup recommends having the eggcrate resting on the back of the tank and spraybar at the far back bottom. Earl is using the spraybar under a center framework of liverock.

Where would you aim the water flow coming from the spray bar??? This is actually a method that I devised. Its called the eggcrate setup. Essentially its black eggcrate that's raised off the bottom using horizontal pieces of PVC the spray bar is positioned in such a was as to push water under the eggcrate toward the front of the tank. When the water hits the front glass, it rolls back creating a circular motion. If you were to look at the tank from the side you see the water coming from the spraybar in a clockwise motion... to the overflows located on the back of the tank. Using this method most of the detritus ends up in the front of the tank.

Also Robert, you mention NOT to use any type of sponge to trap particulate matter.... Yes that's correct.. however. THe real concept is to minimize any biological filtration that may occur on these pre filters. I actually do recommend using a prefilter but to clean it regularly. Judging from my survey about 1/2 use some sort of prefilter. A prefilter is beneficial for removing large particulate matter but it does need regular (weekly cleaning) The prefilter material I like to use in the blue floss. (marineland) and cut this to fit under your dripplate.

I have a sponge block over and around the intake pipe of my pre filter/overflow to trap material before entering my sump. What would you use instead of this?? Should I just take it out??? The problem with that is if the filter clogs the tank may overflow, which is why I recommend the prefilter under a type of dripplate in the sump. If it does clog there, usually it will just overflow around the dripplate but still end up in the sump.

Yes that's a problem. My method is to have the skimmer drain to a "clean" side of the sump. You create a partition in the sump. One "dirty" from the tank, and one "clean" from the skimmer. THe water gets returned to the tank from the clean side. Then the only concern for small bubbles is where the water from the skimmer is in relation to the outlet to the return pump. Here some people need a foam "dam" to eliminate micro bubbles

I also use a floss pad in my sump to trap matter before entering my main pump and skimmer pump. Should that be removed ??? yes see above

I don't recommend using activated carbon or xphosphate on a regular basis. You really shouldn't need it. You only use that when its needed (to remove ) an overdose of iodine.. or if something falls in the tank, if the tank is badly neglected and you're trying to recover it. The xphosphate is expensive and if you use an ro/di unit, don't over feed, and have proper reeflighting phosphate should not be a problem. What I'm saying is to correct the problem as to why you have phosphate rather than addressing it by using a chemical sponge. Of if your just using it to be safe... I don't think you need it.

Would you believe if I told you... You don't have a problem.. This is a natural occurrence and will diminish in time. Until then the best way to remove this diatom algae is with an algae magnet. Below are my observations (from experience)

This is the key, your tank is relatively new... 5 months its finally balancing out.

That was totally un necessary. They "correct" way... (what I recommend) is to add all the liverock first. Let the tank completely cycle ammonia to nitrite- to nitrate then add all or most of the inverts go through a much smaller cycle do the fish last--- cycle Then do *one* water change then get on a regular wc cycle as long as its regular it can be every 2 weeks 1x per Mon. or whatever as long as its regular. By doing so many wc is a wonder how your tank ever cycled!

It's crazy! I am meticulous with that reef yet I still have this problem. You sound like your doing a great job. This is only the tank balancing and it will slow down. Eventually, you should have to clean the glass 1x per week to remove these diatoms. Don't be fooled by stores whose tanks look pristine... what do you think the workers first job is....? clean the algae so it appears that they know something you don't. Id recommend buying the most powerful glass cleaner magnet you can find, the bigger the better, that way you don't have to put your hands in the tank. Trust me.. this is natural.

That's good algae! Its good because its easily managed and will act as a "sponge" pulling out phosphate and nutrients. Cultivate this, and when the green tufts get about 1 " long take scissors and trim it down, throw the clippings away. You can have say 2 - 4 two inch patches of this growing. Clean the glass around it and use a razor blade to keep it the size you want I know it can be unsightly growing in the middle of the glass but remove it where you don't want it and leave it near the sides where its lees noticeable

I would loose the x phosphate and x silicate just use the above suggestions

I tell you, it's almost to the point where I just want to tear down my reef. I have to scrape my tank down nearly every day because of this film. Yes for now that's the way it is, it will diminish

I don't think its a problem with the prefilter. When you said the tank is 5 months... that's the indicator that its just balancing You just have to maintain it. Again with the algae magnet (a strong one)

What type of mandarins? MAndarin gobies? They don't do well in captivity. Mandarin gobies need a constant source of live food and if they don't receive that they die. The mandarin goby is not a good choice for an aquarium. Basically the same thing with the raccoon face. You need to get "reef" fish, like tangs, clowns, angles, etc. Snowflake eels are nice looking but will usually get sucked in or find their way into your pumps (where they perish) so they are also a poor choice.

Your questions are far too general for me to provide a definitive answer. You don't say how you went about setting up the tank or providing me any history of the tank, such as how much liverock do you have? Did you cycle it before you added fish? Do you know about cycling liverock? I suggest either purchasing my book, or if your looking for free beginner information on cycling etc.. read my several FAQS As far as gluing down your anemone... I'm sure that would stress it to death. They have to be able to move around as needed. They do this for lighting needs and food.

Am using it to set up my reef system. Question: On the plans for the ETS skimmer, how is the cap attached to the tower portion? is it a press fit with no glue? Seems to me if you don't glue it, it would either pop off or leak or both. Which "cap"? The utmost top cover which covers the collection chamber is not glued but rather held in place by gluing another piece of plexi (the same size as the *inside* of the collection tube) to the actual cover. This will provide a snug fit while still allowing some air to escape, (so there is no back pressure in the collection tube). Actually, Id recommend to drill 2 - 1/4 inch holes in the cover to allow air to escape and eliminating back pressure in the collection chamber. If you follow the plan and have a drain connection on the bottom of the collection area and just drain into an open bucket air can escape there - although if you have it connected to the house plumbing drain via vinyl hose the 2 - 1/4" holes in the cover are more important. Let me know which cap you mean.

Also, I was given a 100 gal tank which I would like to drill so that it drains from the side to avoid the siphon hassle. the manufacturer and a couple of glass shops have not been encouraging as far as drilling. I know someone who can do it. Would it be a good idea to reinforce the area around the hole with Plexiglas and silicone? Thanks for your help. Ok, Id suggest if the glass shop isn't comfortable drilling it then find another glass shop. Drilling the back of a tank is trivial for experienced glass shops and they should charge you about $10 per hole. $15 maximum. You have to find a shop who has done it before. They really cannot guarantee not breaking the tank, so there is some risk on your end. we cant figure to pay 10 - 15 per hole and if they break it.. to buy you a new tank. I've had at least a dozen tanks drilled by 3 different shops and I've never had a broken tank. There is a risk though. As far as reinforcing the tank its not necessary at all. What I would recommend is to use 1.5" bulkheads. 1 inch or 1.25" aren't big enough. Purchase the bulkheads *first* so you can bring them to the shop and they can match the hole exactly. As I recommend throughout the book, take your time to find the gray bulkheads. the gray will blend into the tank, white will not. They gray bulkheads are called (I believe) schedule 80 They cost about $8 ea. for a 1.5" After the holes are drilled the only risk is overtightning the fitting. The bulkhead will come with 2 gaskets, place a light bead of silicone on all contact surfaces (both sides of the gaskets and the fitting) and then tighten *slightly* tighter than hand tight. Don't use wrenches, let the silicone dry for a day, if you have threaded fitting to connect to the bulkheads definitely use vinyl tape. If you need more help, or I wasn't explicit enough feel free to write

Also, with a 100 gal tank, do I need a column that tall? Thanks again. Ideally you would like a column as tall as physically possible, although some people will make dual columns much like the Gemini series. The taller the column the better. The cap I was asking about is the one on top of the bioball tower. The book says it's a specialized fitting but it's not clear to me if it is only slid into place or glued. I see. That fitting is a cap (page 219 cap slip) combined with the insert reducing male adapter pg. 222 insert fittings. This fitting simply slips over the column. The reduced portion would be inside the bio ball column, and then use a female threaded combination outside connecting to the vinyl tubing water supply. What makes it special is its *size*. You need to find a cap that will slip over the bioball column, the insert reducing coupling will protrude inside the column approx 1.5 inches and you end your bioballs about 4 inches below that. So the cap simply slips over the bioball column. Finding the size slightly larger than the outside diameter of your bioball tower (usually about 2 inch dia) can be a challenge, but you can find it. Leaking or water escaping is not a problem although salt creep can be. You should wipe off this area weekly to keep the salt creep at bay. Let me know how it goes or if I can be of any help (I'll do what I can)