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Are you using RO or DI water? Most significant
algae problems are caused
IME by not using RO or DI water. Most hobbyist
test kits wont read a
tremendously accurate silicate or phosphate test.
Problem algae is
usually traced to water, over feeding, light bulbs
past their life
expectancy, low pH and not using Kalkwasser, insufficient
skimming
Use 1 1/2" bulkheads for sure no smaller if you
need to adapt to a smaller
piping you can always use a reducer bushing. Inexpensive
white bulkheads are
available at pool stores or the higher quality
gray @ a good plumbing supply.
http://nucalf.physics.fsu.edu/pfohl/Fish/Diy/downdrft.txt
http://nucalf.physics.fsu.edu/pfohl/Fish/Diy/downdrft.jpg
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~cap/pictures/myreef/skimmer/index.html
Other more formal faq are at
http://nucalf.physics.fsu.edu/pfohl/Fish/Faq/reefkeepersFAQ.all/
this is
probably THE faq you are looking for
OR
http://www.jmas.co.jp/FAQs/aquaria/reefkeeper-faq/
I am planning on using a 60 hex tank for a reef
is this OK?
Tall tanks are not really recommended (at least
by me) because there wont be enough room
for positioning the live rock and having the lighting
evenly dispersed. Using a tall tank one usually has to stack rock upon
rock which in turn doesn't allow life forms to grow beneath the stack.
ALso lighting will be an issue
I'm not sure of the watt, it does have a FL 15 on it, if that means anything.
Probably a 15 watt. Ideally you would want between
3 and 5 watts per gallon or 180 to 350 watts. If you were going to use
the 60 hex you would probably be best off with a 175 watt metal halide.
I'm sure you get the picture,
highly lit on top nothing below it.
You also talk about a skimmer on you reef page. What does that do that my Power Head doesn't? And what is an est. cost of a skimmer?
All a power head does is circulate water. A skimmer
or foam fractioner removes organic waste by bombarding the water column
with tiny bubbles. Waste in the water sticks to the tiny bubbles rise to
the top and burst.
This becomes a buildup of greenish brown organic
material that overflows to be removed from the system.Skimmers range from
around $100 to $800. Most hobbyists use a CPR backpack for a tank your size
they are around $100 My suggestion to you would be forget the hex tank.
If you really want to do
a reef tank buy a 55 gall. Its an affordable tank
and will give you a much more functional system and better display. Also
it is a standard size so components are much easier to find less
expensive and will simply give you
a better system. I strongly recommend to all....
to think well before they begin. This hobby is very expensive and starting
off wrong will end up costing more money in the long run.
I recently purchased a 135 gallon tank and top
of the line wet/dry filter. I want to set it up as a reef tank.
Usually a reef does not use a wet dry although
you can use it for the sump. Nitrification takes place on the liverock
and bio media in a WD competes for the bacteria, not to mention produces
nitrates. So use it with out the media as a receptacle for directing your water.
To the skimmer_ tank etc.
I am going to use some of your suggestions
that you offered in regards to fish etc.
Good. Usually fish are in the smallest population
in a reef as they are the biggest consumers of food and therefore produce
the most waste.
I did not know that Tangs could be in with anemones!
Can they?
Sure although depending on the type of anemone
and how curious the fish is it *is possible* to loose a fish though this
is rare. Carpet anemones are the most powerful as far as killing curious
fish usually its not a problem
How do it build my own protein skimmer. Is it
possible?
Sure its not really a big deal especially if your
good with your hands have the time and place to do it. I only have plans
in my book but if you search around the net I'm sure you can find something
for free.
I've purchased a new tank I'm wondering what
size it is? The dimensions are 36X24x24, I remember you have
to multiply these three numbers together and divide by another number but
can't remember what.
The number is 231 There are 231 cubic inches in
one gallon of water. In other words a square box measuring 6.14 X 6.14
X 6.14 would calculate to 231 cubic inches and hold one gallon . So it
sounds like this 36X24X24 = 20736 cubic inches divided by 231 = 89.76 or
a 90 gallon.
Last night I was cleaning out my tank and found
3 centipede cooling things I believe called bristle worms. What are
these things?
Yes it sounds like a bristle worm. Some consider
them to damage corals and eat polyps etc. Mainly they are detrivores and
opportunistic scavengers. For the most part you would like to get rid of
them as they *can* be a risk to desirable creatures.
Does this mean I doing something wrong
No, they are living in the rock and a natural
occurrence
I also wanted to ask you if they sell your book
in stores or do I have to order it through the internet. If I do
that's fine, I just want to make sure I can't get it through any stores.
You can get it at any Barnes and Noble but it
will take about 2 weeks. You aren't actually *buying* it "through the internet"
but calling a service that will take your CC info and process the order.
The # is 1-800-377-4479. Or if you want you can send a money order to Shoreline
Resources Box 227 Branford Ct 06405 CC or MO get shipped immediately you
will have the book in about 3 days.If you send a regular check to the PO
box it will take a week and 3 days I am working on a revised edition that
will be done in a few months and that will be available FREE to any one
who has the book and has returned the questionnaire in the self addressed
stamped envelope. The whole new book is not free just the new images
and text about 30 + pages.
Let me know how to obtain the updates you offered.
I'll probably also just buy the updated version of the book when it is
published as I like to support those who work so hard to help guys
like me succeed in a hobby.
All that I require is you fill out and return
the questionnaire in the SASE.There is a letter that accompanies each book
with the questionnaire.
If I use a Jaubert sand and plenum type of system
in conjunction with protein skimming, what minimum sand layer depths and
plenum depth can I use and expect success?
Usually about 2 to 3 inches does well for
nitrification and denitrification. Although I am not a proponent of plenums
and feel them to be totally un necessary unless of course you want the
look of a sand bottom.
I'm not quite sure what you've told me.
Are you saying that you like a 2-3 inch depth of live sand bottom,
but without a plenum?
No I don't like sand if... you want to use
a plenum typically 2 - 3 in possibly more is used OR without a plenum
2 - 3 in also. This is a highly debated topic. sand or no sand etc. In
the book it describes in detail my views on this. The method I like , use
and recommend is to use all eggcrate and set the rock up on that. A spray
bar lower rear of the tank and a cosmetic covering of less than 1/2 in
of sand. This is a "Glorified Berlin Method" and what some call the Metelsky
Method.Of course its all explained in the book.
He also said that he'd had a Xenia
Crash but that was nothing to do with Lugols.
Xenia can be finicky, far from a bullet proof
animal. I have lost Xenia or it was predated quickly *poof* gone. (was
not adding Lugols at the time)Tank raised Xenia only became popular
about a year ago. Prior to that... wild pulsing Xenia was virtually impossible
to ship let alone keep. Some
hobbyists somehow were able to propagate some
and then a strain of keep able Xenia began and was passed around. One of
the main dealers / propagators was Eric Amadio of tide pool enterprises
he claimed to have hardy Xenia. I haven heard much from him recently
possibly search for his web page. Also a hobbyist Todd Hillson claims great
success with Xenia, his link is on my links page. I would recommend to
talk to those who have ALLOT of experience with the Xenia and see
what they say. That way its not isolated incidents and your getting it
from the "proverbial horses mouth" *someone who knows*
My point of posting this was not to say STOP USING IT but to try and see> what people thought of the article and what they thought of using Lugols rather than Potassium Iodide.
Well you gotta know by now on the net if you ask
an opinion..... thats what
you'll get. And no one seems to be in agreement
with anything
I have a 75 gallon tank with 90 lbs of live rock and 20 lbs of base rock. Lighting consists of two 5500K Metal halides and two 48" Blue moon actinic's. Photo-period is 14 hours per day. Lights are on timers. A 36" venturi protein skimmer is used to remove unwanted proteins and other nasties. Sump is approx. 20 gallons.
Sounds very good
Also have a magnum 350 with a micron filter
in it that I use to keep the water crystal clear.
If you are comfortable with that its ok however
that is not really used in reef aquariums. One alternative is to
use a prefilter floss in the sump area under the drip plate. That's nothing
to do with your algae though.
I use reef calcium, reef plus, reef strontium,
and reef iron.
Sounds all good except for the iron. Use it very
sparingly as it causes micro algae to grow, or test for it.
Kalkwasser is dripped into the sump via
gravity.
Are you adding for *all* your make up water? How
do you mix the kalk? Briefly... it should be mixed with ro or di water
using a powerhead. In a 5 gal bucket place the powerhead on the bottom
of the bucket take a piece of airline or sufficient length to go from the
bucket into the sump, and attach a weight to it to hold it 3/4 " above
the bottom of the bucket. Fill with water, turn the power head on, add
5 heaping teaspoons of kalk, mix for approximately 4 – 5 hours, unplug
the power head, let the mix sit for 4-5 hours, then drip into the sump
near the intake of the skimmer.
The best time to add the mix is in the AM this
is when the pH is lowest although adding late at night is acceptable as
well. A convenient schedule is begin mixing around 7-8 pm end before
bed and add first thing in the am
Temperature is 74 degrees.
You may want to try around 80 degrees
Have approximately 15 different
corals, 3 types of anemones, and four types of mushrooms/button polyps.
Only have three small fish. Sixty hermit crabs and sixty snails were added
three months ago.
sounds good.
Do you test for calcium? It should be around
400 to 450 here are a few guidelines
Use all limewater for make up evaporation
mix as described.
Do regular water changes of either 12% every
2 weeks or 25-30% monthly use a high quality salt such as coralife or instant
ocean . Make sure you have *some seed coralline growth* on the existing
rock if not get a few new pieces. coralline is very easy to grow and by
using the suggestions will have it going in no time. I suspect low calcium
readings probably due to improper mixing of kalk. One other idea to supplement
your system while starting is to try Mark Wiess product Coral Vital. This
product sometimes has a side effect as producing red slime algae but not
in all systems. If it was my tank I would use the suggestions here *and*
the coral vital to give you a boost. One reminder.. don't try to
change conditions overnight do everything.
I forwarded you list to an online supplier guy I use Brian @ reefers he gave a quote on some things. I also added my remarks I notice you use TFP I have always found MOP to be much cheaper.For test kits I would use either Lamotte or salifert Salt either Instant Ocean or Coralife For Ro or Di Spectra pure is best by far although you know my feelings on RO so Personally I would use a single stage Ultralife DI and then add a couple of carbon pre filters purchased at a HIC For supplies either TFP MOP a couple of online dealers. Such as Brian @reefers Mark @ Northcoast. For livestock I would recommend Jack @ Reeflife in Ft Ladurdale I host pages for him on my site complete with prices.
I have an idea for a "power cleaner".
I have an old Fluval 102 canister filter that would hold two layers
of sponge or floss and one layer of charcoal. Of course this power
cleaning method would only be used during cleaning - not on constantly.
Unless you think that this idea is totally crazy, I will give it a try
and let you know the results.
You can try it although I have found that
using a small diameter hose gives adequate pull from the nooks and crannies
without having to *recycle/ handle* the water. Hey! give it a try!
I would appreciate - when you have the time
- to give me your opinion about commercially available protein skimmers.
I am considering the CPR SR-6, but I am a little skeptical as to what CPR
means by a "rejuvenation Skimmer". The others that I have looked
at are DandD
Marine's "The Beast" and the Berlin.
Although I've never used a CPR I've heard
rave reviews about it and think it may very well simplify skimming in a
tank of your size. Brian recommended one that comes with a pump to further
cut costs.I Don't think he will steer you wrong. For the most part, downdrafts
work the best, followed by venturies then counter current. The CPR is compact
and hangs on the back alleviating the problem of having to be above the
sump as with larger skimmers. If you want an exact recommendation well...
for your system probably the CPR followed by a Top Fathom Venturi. If you
have room for it or are willing to put in on the side of the tank (above
the sump)
I can work within my budget and time line if
I use two NO fluorescent during the time the tank is cycling with the
live rock only. Then, BEFORE adding the inverts, corals, anemones,
and fish, I would replace it with a four tube VHO/NO combination equaling
approx. 5 w/gal.
If that will work better for you. However,
the cycle wont/shouldn't take that long probably 2 weeks max.I think
it more practical to have everything in place (the Ice cap ballast and
lamps) so you Don't have to go and change it again. I would have everything
in place, ready to go.
I'm designing mine own home brew lighting hood
that should save me a bundle compared to what I've seen commercially available.
That depends where you buy.. do some online shopping asking for prices
and specs This may seem contradictory to the book, but from what I've seen
online for average size tanks the prices arent bad. Unless of course you
want a custom canopy something to your liking and specs.By the way, I'm
also of the opinion that halides are probably not necessary except for
extreme lighting needs of certain specimens. Besides, I don't want
to have to think about a chiller to offset all of that heat.
My sediments exactly. 5 WPG is plenty IMO and
is the *average* from my survey. Use the VHO ice cap electronic ballasts
they are fantastic! And forget the coralife bulbs and ballasts use URI
ultra violet resources purchased MO and nice cap ballasts. For the NO
you can use regular HIC ballasts and Phillips 03 lamps.
To keep this short, Is there some reason why the skimmer constantly generates huge amounts of foam, but no matter how I adjust the discharge valve, the foam never spills over to the collection cup? How long has it been running? Usually it takes a week or 2 to "kick in" If its been running more than a month I would guess it to be adjusted to your water.(coating the inside of the skimmer with saltwater to cover and remove the plastics coating.)
I used to have a skimpy little skimmer that
would at least generate an ounce or two of "crud" per day for five years.
Water quality analyzes good, but my corals aren't opening up as they
used to! I may also guess that you don't have much to skim?? possibly...
About your skimmer, make absolutely SURE
the drain hose is not blocked. The upper waste drain. A known method of
insuring the are not clogged is to place a new piece of tubing on the connection
and blow through it. It is very important to have the down drafted air escape.
I suspect this may be your problem. Let me know if that does it.
Recently I emailed you about a bristle
worm problem. Well I read your FAQ on bristle worms and tried
putting my live rock in regular water.
I don't think I recommended soaking the rock in
FW.
honestly I couldn't believe how many
little worms came squirming out of there. I let it soak over night in my
bathtub. I put the live rock back into the tank and now the purple
color on my rock ( I don't know the real name for it) looks faded.
coralline algae
The color isn't as brilliant. Did I do
something wrong?? Please tell me I didn't make some huge mistake
with my live rock.
Not a good move. I would venture a guess that
you may have some serious problems. If you are EXTREMELY lucky you might
be ok. Soaking the rock in FW is probably equal to putting a plastic bag
over your head. If the coralline algae on the rock (the nice pink stuff)
doesn't turn white and you don't see other white stuff that looks like
toothpaste on the rock,(usually anything white is dead) and you don't have
a ammonia cycle that stresses the rest of the tank, well... Id be surprised.Anyway
You should check your ammonia levels If they are high and you have sensitive
fish corals or inverts you should take out the rock and place it in a <clean
read...new> garbage
can filled with saltwater either from your tank
or newly mixed water. This will allow ant die off and cycling of the rock
to happen AWAY from your creatures and minimize stress(that could
be fatal) associated with cycling liverock. When you get a zero ammonia
reading AND a zero nitrite reading it should be safe to put the rock back
in the tank.
And what ever you do ***Don't soak the rock in
FW...ESPECIALLY in the
bathtub!!!***AGAIN! So check your tank for ammonia
and nitrite if its zero your probably ok
although its possible to pick up some soap residue
from the tub, that could cause problems too.
I have read your article on the web and
liked it very much. I am currently setting up a 100 gallon reef tank.
This is my first reef. I have had marine community tanks for many
years, but reefs I am new to.I have a question regarding you ETS Skimmer.
One, how big is your tank and what size skimmer and pump is connected to
the ETS?
My tank is a 200 gal with a 45 gal sump The Ets
is a homemade model copying the 1000 series. That skimmer stands 5 ft tall
and sits on top of the sump, the sump is 24 in tall so the top of the skimmer
is 7 ft from the floor. I use Little giants 1200 GPH one for the skimmer
and one for the sump to the tank.ETS makes a model that is called a Gemini
and its rated for up to a 150 gallon I believe and only stands 26 inches.
Its a dual downdraft and works very well. Ets are the top of the line and
eliminate any fussing associated with other skimmers.
I am looking for a skimmer size recommendations
from you along with the pump to run it. In order for you to give
me that, let me outline the current specs on the tank. As you
know a 100 gallon tank, I have proposed a 1" layer of crush coral and then
a 2" layer of live sand on top of that. The tank is drilled.
The sump is 30 gallons an contains all the necessary stuff, heater,
chillier and the like. The sump is then pumped with a little
giant rated for 1225 GPH.
All sounds good, although my personal preference
is no substrate but of
course substrate is fine.
I have a total of four power heads moving some
800 GPH. So the tank is circulating the
water at 2,025 GPH. However, if I am
saying that the tank is being turn over several times an hour, it is not
necessary being filtered at that rate. This is where you come in.
Ok as far as turnover or filtering capacity it
is what the skimmer processes in your case 6X per hour X 100 gal would
be a min of 600 GPH .Somehow I think 1225 would be maximum for the skimmer.
Really it depends on whether the drilled tank could handle the flow. Is
it drilled through the upper back or the bottom with a standpipe and a
dam type overflow? The standpipe (usually 1 in) would be maxed out
at that high of a rate
I was wondering if u could help me. i
have a 125 gallon undersea habitat truevu tank. (custom built rock backing.
with this i have 2 very big canisters. one has a pleat, and the other
has bioballs, and carbon.
Canister filters are not used on reef tanks. The
trap detritus and will
produce nitrates, besides being difficult
to clean and maintain.
This is attached to a quiet one pump, (600 gallons
an hour). I have another quiet one pump for water circulation. I
have a protein skimmer up to 100 gallons, with circulation of 260
gallons an hour.
The protein skimmers rating should be cut in half
in other words this 100 gallon would be good for a 55gall tank
No I have not tried them. I am fairly sure that they have merit and would love to set up a couple of tanks to experiment with those principals, however In the past couple of years I haven't had time.
In particular, I was interested in the Lee Chin Eng's (or Natural) system
Yes the Lee Chin seems to be the least technical and may work well for a very lightly stocked tank. As pointed out in TRA oxygen is probably the most essential element in the tank and I would question how much could really be added with just an airpump.
and the Dr.'s Adey's System.
Adeys uses the turf scrubber and surge device. That system is probably the most difficult to run properly, and you have the significant extra cost of lighting not only in operating (electricity) but the replacement costs of bulbs. (this one I'm less in a hurry to experiment with) <grin> Also the algae has to be carefully managed. I am sure the system would work well but I see it as being a bit complex.
I'm curious since I don't have that much room for my 55 gallon tank and the natural system doesn't require extra sumps and things.
Out of all the systems the 2 most popular are the Berlin and Jaubert. Quite a few people who do run a Jaubert also use a skimmer and that is called believe a NNR system. I hear allot about algae problems associated with plenums over a period of time and It has happened to me. My recommended system is the Berlin and using eggcrate and the spraybar makes it a "Glorified Berlin" It works extremely well and of course I highly recommend it. It seems to me as a general observation that because these systems never really caught on that there must be a reason for it. *Most* hobbyists are economical and if a less expensive system would work it would be more widely used. I guess that's the basis or your question, I wish I could be more help and in the future (once the dust starts to settle) I may do some experiments with these systems
I do have a question about my Colt coral- it dislodged from the rocks and wound up in the bottom of the powerhead! I do not recommend powerheads in the tank just for this reason, among others.
Part of the ends were torn.Is there anything that I can do or it is a wait and see game? I would recommend a wait and see. Make sure the base of the coral is either attached with a *light* (not too tight) rubber band or firmly wedged in between the rocks where it can begin to feel secure and attempt to re attach to some base rock. The colt is a very hardy beautiful, species and I would venture a guess that it will be ok.
Also, I have a green star polyp that is about two weeks old. It has not come out since my last water change, about one week ago. Is there a problem here?
when you did the WC
Ok well...IMO a "wide variety of corals" will have a equally wide variety of demands. As you know I am not a proponent of extreme wattage, which has been one of the reasons for doing my survey Id suggest to have a look at that. Anyway, again IMO I would recommend easier to keep corals and usually...the higher the light requirements the more difficult to keep. For example a HL SPS tank will consume a heck of allot of calcium, so a calcium reactor may be in order and depending on your physical location the heat from the lamps and pumps usually transfer to the water so If your in this league.. a chiller may also be called for. Keep in mind a wide variety can really be *a wide variety* but the long term costs of operation is damn costly Believe me!!
1. Why have a prefilter at all? Won't the pump impellers chop everything up so that the skimmer can remove it, if not on the first pass then on subsequent passes?
The prefilter is used as a *mechanical* filter, as to remove small particulate matter. Its definitely not a must but does help.
Why not use that space for an additional skimmer if necessary? I really don't think it takes up that much space.
Since I'm working with a confined space,
Ok.. if anything I don't like the sound of a "confined space" as in the book.. I think that is the biggest mistake made by hobbyists IME one of the fundamentals of a long term successful tank is ease of maintenance. And a confined space is not going to work well (unless you don't mind getting totally frustrated every time you want to do something under there).Believe me after a few months.. the novelty wears off then.... You have some great innovative ideas but I would suggest to rethink the long term setup.
I'm thinking two (or more) smaller skimmers sitting in a wide and long sump with the bottom of the skimmer at the top of what would be a relatively shallow water line.
They have "in the sump" skimmers such as the turbo floater. I haven't use it but they seem Ok from what I've heard.
2. What about that passive wave maker idea?
Usually anything mechanical is prone to failure at some point. What has worked very well is the surge device although it takes up space and can be a bit noisy. Aside from that it works wonderful!
I'm thinking of putting dams across both back corners for the overflow intake. Sounds good
Then I would fill all corner joints with a cant strip (a long triangular shaped piece of wood) to minimize dead spots. What width?? 3/4" 1" - 1.5". That's sounds ok but I don't really think its necessary.
I thought about putting sections of spray bar all around the base perimeter that could be individually operated as either outflows or intakes. I had thoughts of doing an angled bottom (sloped downward to the front where waste could accumulate and even possibly a drain in the bottom at the lowest point. Then every so often you just open the valve and *voosh* out goes the detritus. Really... with just using one spraybar pushing to the front this has most of the detritus ending up in one "dead" area...the from where it can be removed easily with a siphon.
This part of the piping system would have to be a closed to avoid a siphon during a power outage. A powered canister system like Lifeguard might work. The idea being to keep all areas of the tank in constant water flow. I think you want to have all the water going out of the top and coming in the bottom this really gives a nice swirling motion, especially when accompanied by the alternating surge device.
I'm thinking that the grate/rock would extend right up to the front edge. The front edge of the tank?? No. that space is paramount importance with the flow, that's where the actual swirling takes place and the area to remove debris.
No sand at all in this scenario, That's fine
and no vacuuming from the top either unless absolutely necessary to clean the rocks. The rock should be frequently vacuumed of detritus
The spray bars could be used to drain down the tank for water changes. That could be difficult as the spraybar has the anti siphon hole. IMO better to just vacuum the rock with a hose.
But, what do you do when something gets under/behind the grate and dies? Some removable panels of the eggcrate might work to give access to the back/underside.
Naaahhh that doesn't happen. If anything did ever die I would think the scavengers to get it. But it just doesn't happen and I wouldn't think worth the time. Once its set up you just leave it alone and mother nature takes over. Although I have suggested a yearly take down, but that will change in my revised edition that I am presently working on. The upgrade will be FREE to those who have the book and took the 2 min to fill out the questionnaire. It should be done By Nov
I'm sorry that I appear dogmatic to your ideas. Actually I am not but I see some "improvements" that could become problems and much less simplified. The absolute best way is to have a room behind the tank and use that for all the equipment. Then you can do/have what ever you want.
my leather coral didn't extend today during the light cycle. It's the first time its polyps haven't come out... should I be concerned?
This is IMO typical, it/they go through a period of "sloughing" from time to time. I have 2 Sarcophyton each at one end of the tank and it seemed that one is always closed. One day one would close the next the other. I believe this is some kind of regenerative process. That's a nice easy to keep animal.
I can get coralline to grow for awhile then it turns white.
IME I have only seen coralline turn completely white when exposed to air.
I add CaCl when my Ca++ is low
I think the calcium chloride is a bad idea...best not to try and "maintain" such high levels/ readings of Ca The CaCl throws the system out of balance possibly giving you an inaccurate Ca reading
Your reading / additives sound picture perfect, except the calcium chloride and buffering of it. Personally I would try W/O CaCl and cut back on the lugols and see what happens. Its obvious we cant go by "readings" all of the time. I'm sure you mix the kalk to the "supersaturated levels" we hear about all the time. IME adding plenty of kalk only...with regular water changes using a HQ salt, will give unreal coralline growth. Have you tried the pickling lime? Its unbelievably inexpensive like 1.40 a lb
Since the live rock will be up, and there will be uninhabited areas behind/under the live rock, can the 4 watts of lighting per gallon be calculated only using that part of the tank actually exposed to the lights? Could be but I don't understand why up off the bottom?
270 x 4 = 1080 watts, which is 6 - 175 watt metal halides! I'm thinking 4 (still that's 700 watts) is more reasonable.
How about 2 10000K 400watt halides? cheaper to relamp than 6 175
2. What size tank will the protein skimmer design in your book handle? Will making it taller or bigger in diameter with a larger pump make it "better"?
Yes But why don't you build a downdraft? Its pretty easy I could also dig up a URL for a online version here you go http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~cap/pictures/myreef/skimmer/index.html if you need help I can give you some ideas
Is lifting the cup off and wiping out the lift tube all that is needed to clean a skimmer on a regular basis?
Basically, but you want to have it be "pretty easy" to take outside and blast with a hose like monthly..
Several posts to the newsgroups suggest continual cleaning is necessary to keep the skimmer operating efficiently. Well you'll get allot of opinions there . Yes, cleaning it regularly will improve performance, BUT not enough to warrant being a fanatic. You'll see its no big deal, just have it so its not a PITA to take out. The easier it is to come out the better.
What is UV absorbing acrylic?Would it be lexan?
have a look @ http://www.athiel.com/lib4/par1.htm and http://www.athiel.com/html/library.htm that will give you some more ideas
How can I calculate heat temperatures/distance of the lighting cover so I can select the right cover the first time?
IMO you are better off with glass or no cover again its the old "don't try and cram as much as possible in a space"
I am estimating about $5,000 spread out over a little time since I'm building it slowly. After all, it's to be a 250 gallon showcase......
That sounds *very* conservative to me. I would venture a guess probably when all is said and done according to your previous emails 2x that or at Least 8000. My 200 was 5k and ... I DIY everything have a friend who is a wholesaler have a look at the survey results. This is the reason for my suggestion on doing a realistic budget. What usually happens is we figure... well probably 5k and end up with a 10k system <grin> I *slight* difference. If $$ is no object fine, but again writing a realistic plan will end up saving substantial $$
Also, can two skimmers be run off one pump? Yes although one usually ends up shutting the other down or makes the flow of one or the other sporadic and somewhat unpredictable.
I'm wondering which side (if any) of your sump design might be used as a refugium. The "dirty" side makes sense in terms of feeding small critters nutrients from the tank, but then they get sent through the skimmer.
I don't recommend putting anything in your sump as it will take away water volume and with the recommended turnover rates refugium wont last or do well there. To have a decent refugium you need a separate area where flow can be minimized.
(Was it you or Moe who suggested that ETS skimmers kill plankton?)
wasn't me, if the refugia is sufficiently separated via flow this will not be much of an issue.
I have what I think is limestone, do you think its safe to put in my tank?
I cant say much about your native rock there. I would say the only way to be absolutely safe is to have the rock tested or have it used in a previous system.
That's possible but first figure how much you need. Your tank is a 220? so X 1.5 or 330 lbs. of rock If you use the eggcrate *with* the back and sides, this amount will make the tank look *full* without needing too much "base rock" Personally... I would use ALL live rock possibly using some other material *if* you really want to be frugal for the base rock. I think this is all explained in my book.
I have a Fish Only Tank. I was asking about the high pH with the Coralife Salt cause I thought that there was reason for concern. I have been doing my water changes. This fall I am planning to convert > the Fish Only Tank to a Reef Tank.
Ok I see, what kind of salt were you using before CL? I don't think it will make a negative difference in the pH on your fish only tank and can possibly get them acclimated to the new salt and changes to come. Do the fish seem stressed? If not I wouldn't worry about it. Test the tank water(for pH) before and after the WC and see how much of a difference it is.
I'm toying with the idea of setting up a minireef (20L tank) using 4 20w fluorescent bulbs for lighting and the Berlin method for filtration. I read your recommendation to keep no smaller than a 55 gal. tank and, since I lack experience, will likely stay away from the harder-to-maintain 20 gal. tank for now. I'm still thinking through the lighting possibilities. One factor weighing in favor of a 20 gallon tank is that I'd feel more comfortable moving a smaller tank when I move in approximately one year.
Really, a 55 is not much different in terms of initial cost or physically moving the tank. I would definitely recommend the 55 over a 20, because once you have the 20 you will wish you had the 55 <grin>. Really the main cost difference is the live rock cost and with the affordable internet merchants that's not really an issue <Much>
But I'm pretty patient, so I may spend the next year learning, saving sufficient money for a nice reef system, and then set up a larger tank in a more-permanent place.
Maybe write out a realistic plan as to costs and see if its within your budget. IMO if you can setup a 20... you can do a 55
About temp swings
FWIW my tank has been from say 70 to max of 87 or so and as long as it is gradual the tank will be fine. Naturally occurring temp swings (seasonal) are to be expected. The heater is a good idea though to keep it from going below 75. I'm sorry I missed you cooling question <g> but I would recommend a fan(s) to keep it down and help with evaporation. I am not a proponent of keeping the tank at an *exact* temp, heater on in the am the chiller kicks on in the PM I prefer to have my tank with a slight 5+ degree temp fluctuation
I have this brown.layer that's covering some of my coralline algae -- it's no thicker, but is expanding... how can I control it?
diatom s remnants of a new tank cycle.. possibly feeding too much. Control it with the usual methods as manual removal with a bottle brush hermits dislodge it some critters will eat it. Do you have new lamps? sometimes that can be an indication of failing this type of algae is the most common and "should" pretty much go away naturally if all other components are working such as the shimmer the tap water not overfeeding and having herbivorous (sp) livestock
Is it just a different kind of coralline?
no ;-) coralline is calcareous either pink or purple.
Do your astrae snails reproduce in your tank ??
To be honest I'm not sure exactly what they are. I haven't purchased ANY livestock in about 3 years what I remember is some were astera and some turbo. Turbo being the larger non coned shaped. I have hummm... hundreds of what seem to be baby snails They are oval about 3/8" long 1/4" wide/flat on the bottom/about 1/8" tall/grayish white in color with a few dark bands going the shorter distance the 1/4 " width/some are bright purple. They really only come out when the lights are off and have a somewhat hard shell I have observed some of them growing to a full snail (cone type) algae eater
I was cleaning my skimmer today, and PLOP! -- some gobs of the brown stuff > that accumulates in it dropped back down the tube, and into my "bubble > isolator" that Stephen gave me. Of course, some of the gobs went through > the return pump were distributed as a big cloudy mess. You should clean the skimmer more frequently, before you get accumulations of globs. Wipe out the inner neck with a paper towel ... frequently. A clean skimmer is a productive skimmer. > skyrocket in the next couple of days! *sigh* I doubt it > should I be worried? no you should be more careful ;-)
> How do you guys clean your skimmer without returning the gunk to the system? Carefully and often wipe out the inner neck with a paper towel and you can be less careful in the collection cup. I use the PT in a wiping *up* and *out* motion Also Disconnect the skimmer at *least* 1x pr Mon. and blow it out with a garden hose or the equivalent. Do this outside..in a large sink.. or in a shower.. be careful about soap contamination
I guess I should ask, what are you referring to when you say downdraft? I consider a downdraft skimmer one that is fed at the top, water flows downward and the output (for figurative reasons) is at the bottom. Ok my understanding is 3 kinds of skimmers a counter current uses small pump and airstones a Venturi that uses larger pump and a Venturi valve restrictor and small air intake the downdraft or ETS environmental tower scrubber. This has a TALL like 5 ft x 2" "tower" filled with bioballs, the water gets pumped into the top of this column under relatively high pressure through a fairly small 5/16 or 3/8 piece of plumbing fitting kind of like a tapered fire hose nozzle. At the top of this 2in x 5ft tower there is a hole about 3/8in that allows air to be "down drafted" into this bioball column The turbulated, air induced, foamed water then crashes into a small rectangular box about 8x8x12 inches the foam then drifts over to a LARGE like 8in acrylic reaction foam collection, accumulation riser, much like a regular protein skimmer. Bubbles burst foam rises, and overflows into a collection area like a regular skimmer This works very well as there is virtually no restriction to a very high flow rate. Mine processes 1200gph for the skimmer and another main pump 1200 gph for the main
What is your recommended dosage for Lugols? I have a 55 gallon tank.
I would *start* with 1 drop every other day. Test the water to get the reading you desire, and increase if needed. Usually the recommended dosage is 1 drop per 20 gallon every other day or to achieve a test result of 0.06ppm (the contains of NSW). I would recommend to start slow ... as each tank differs as to demand, skimmer removal and maintenance (water changes). I belive one of the drawbacks of lugols is that it is so economical that its tempting to add too much.I have been using it for about 6 months now and works well as a supplement, however I believe that frequent WC with a good salt will almost eliminate the need for adding iodine, unless of course you have corals that have a high demand.Also I have been using the salifert test kit (very economical)and purchased from Brian @ reefers.
About Coralife salt and high pH
I see from what I have read in your book so far that you use Coral life Salt.
Yes thats all I use although I hear from my survey that allot use instant ocean Some have had a bad experience with CL... I never did!
I have no complaints with it but I notice that when I mix the salt with my deionized water from my tap water purifier (I use 2 of them in series) that all of the salt dissolves almost instantly. Thats what you want.. ideal
When I do a PH test on the water it always tests out at least 8.7 or higher and I do not know why. The CL mix is probably highly buffered, Thats GOOD!!! As soon as you put in fish or anything alive (the waste is acidic) and there is the battle of trying to keep a decent pH. So I Don't misunderstand you, are you setting up a new tank w/o any livestock OR are you mixing for a WC? For a WC 8.7 is GREAT for a new tank you will/should be adding all the liverock first so that will cause the pH to drop to acceptable levels for new more delicate life forms.
I have checked the deionized water before the salt mix and sure enough you cannot get a PH reading So I am assuming that the D. I. Water that I have made is good. Yes it sounds very good Can you help here on what might be amiss?? The type of test kit that I am using is the Tetra Master Kit and the reagent has not expired. Thats not the best test kit but I'm sure it "should' be giving a n accurate reading
Presently, I have a Fish Only Tank. I was asking about the high PH with the Coralife Salt cause I thought that there was reason for concern. I have been doing my water changes. This fall I am planning to convert the Fish Only Tank to a Reef Tank.
Ok I see, what kind of salt were you using before CL? I Don't think it will make a negative difference in the pH on your fish only tank and can possibly get them acclimated to the new salt and changes to come.Do the fish seem stressed? If not I wouldn't worry about it. Test the tank water(for pH) before and after the WC and see how much of a difference it is.
What is supporting the bottom plate of the eggcrate that is raised off the bottom of the tank. Is it PVC piping, if so how big in diameter? either 1 in or 1 1/2 in Or is it small strips of eggcrate? Your description does not provide any detail about this. I like the idea of doing this I would just like to have a little more specific detail.
Yes It works very well.Look At pg 83 the "function and layout of eggcrate" and the 3rd paragraph on pg 84 and pg 86 and 87 "positioning and fastening eggcrate". You use pvc pipe, depending on what size tank you have, will determine the height/diameter of pvc I would say usually one would use a minimum of 1 in to 1 1/2 in. You cut the front of the pvc so as to visually minimize its presence. Have another look/read to get a good feel.
I have a new problem I have some hair algae I assume from the increase in light I have bought 7 hermit crabs and 2 turbo snails.. 1 died in about a week cant seem to keep snails alive very long...
Sometimes they Don't last long and are sensitive to any cycling ammonia/nitrite. Some are believe it or not poisoned by the algae. one out of 2 isn't that bad. 25 out of 50 then you may have a problem.
I am thinking of purchasing the Garf reef janitors 45 for $45 deal is this a good idea
Yea thats a good deal and GARF is a good place. The snails will be good for the tank and will reproduce pretty easily.
or should the algae settle down when it gets adjusted to the new light??? Are you using Ro or DI water? you should You also should dose kalk *very* regularly make SURE you do that do you know about pickle lime? Its the same thing as kalk (its food grade calcium hydroxide) and dirt cheap like $1.40 per lb look for balls pickle lime or see my browser search faq for the address. So 2 things make sure you dose kalk for all evaporation water and use ro or di water and your algae will disappear.
Do I need to get some phosphate remover stuff?? No
Regarding 175 watt bulbs over 400 watt bulbs..... I thought 175s would minimize spot heating. I want an actual hood that blocks out all light from the lights except that entering the tank. I also want it as low as possible, so I'm looking at having to put a protective transparent shield between the water and the bulbs. I called Coralife but they weren't keen on telling me what they use in their MH/FL hood. The blurb in That Fish Place's catalog says it's UV absorbing acrylic, but 400 watts an inch from acrylic sounds like a fire to me. Would it be lexan?
have a look @ http://www.athiel.com/lib4/par1.htm and http://www.athiel.com/html/library.htm that will give you some more ideas
What do you feed a Mandarin fish.? Mandarins primarily eat coepods and macro organisms (basically live food)on the live rock. They are nice looking fish but Don't last long because once the food is gone...so are they.I have had them for about a year then it vanished. Usually they wont accept dry food or even fresh food.They are not a good choice for a tank, although I know they are very beautiful, its definitely not a good choice for you or the fish. Sorry.
My question is should I keep the biological media in the wet/dry filter during the break period for the live rock then gradually remove the bio-balls or when I add the live rock remove the bio-balls from the start?? It just seemed to me that there would be some benefit to using the available bacteria that is well established in the wet/dry filter.
You don't say if this is an active tank i.e.: existing fish, existing water...that you may be thinking about reusing also If you have any fish...they should be removed when you add the liverock and complete the cycling process. From there, I would question the suitability or history of the water. Has it ever been treated with medication? Has it had problems with algae? High Nitrate? My thoughts would be start off right... use ro/di water with a HQ salt mix Ditch the bioballs same with any existing sand, rock, decorations (existing liverock) add *ALL* the liverock go through the complete cycle then add inverts all or most then add fish.. all or most IME it doesn't pay to cut a corner or get a short cut here or there. Its best to start with a *known* and build from there. and finally...I don't see any real benefit from using the bioballs.
I'm sure its probably covered in the book (looking forward to it)... "Proper Lighting?" HVO? Full Spectrum? Which? how much? You will see that I am a proponent of Florescent HO or VHO depending on the wattage you need. I recommend 3 to 5 watts per gallon.Using a combination of actinic white and actinic blue.I catch allot of hell for that...because there are quite a few folks who Don't like absolute # The 3 - 5 WPG is recommend for a beginner or intermediate hobbyist considering an experienced guy probably isn't going to be reading a book called "Simplified Reef Keeping" I have been doing a survey whose averages comes to 5.3 WPG have a look at ../n/survey.htm Also i have given a talk about my opinion on a reef set up basically I favor the lower light creatures because of long term costs ../METELSKY.HTM also My faq sfaq.htm
So I am looking forward to seeing things "Simplified". ::grin::
That it will do. Also I describe a "unique method of aqua scaping" which uses eggcrate and a spraybar This is a *glorified* Berlin method and my favorite
There's a 65 gallon tank and stand in the garage with a trickle-filter (TF) and sump waiting to be used for something I'm sure the TF will be replaced soon...
You can use that as a sump..and a 65 sounds good providing that it is not too "high" or tall which I doubt . The main difference between FW and reef is the cost this hobby is extremely expensive! If you can realize....and get over the sticker shock...its really pretty easy.Expensive! but not that difficult. FWIW there are allot of GOOD companies on the net selling livestock and hardware ie liverock inverts corals....One is my friend Jack at reeflife he is talked about in the book Hobbyist Tanks and on my links page are a listing for others that are very good Brian @ Reefers Marc @ Northcoast Eddie @ Monolith Buying Mail order will save a bundle Ok you should have the book probably by Fri All are sent priority mail and take 3 days to just about anywhere. I will say the book is not the most flashiest text going but easily makes up for it in content.If you are looking for a complete how to book a practical guide hand book IMO SRK is it. I am have been working on the new text and images for a while now and the whole thing should be done sometime in Nov.
have seen several references to the "Berlin Method". By inference I believe this to be simply live sand/live rock with a protein skimmer. Is this true?
Yes That is what I would call it and basically it is known as that. Although...if you look around enough I'm sure you will find information to the contrary <g>
Below is my interpretation of the "Berlin"
My Nitrate levels float between 10-15 and I was wondering how low Nitrates had to be before I attempted to add other inverts .
Ok well, you have borderline acceptable levels now. BUT.. you Don't have the mechanism for denitrification so by adding more fish etc W/O having an export for nitrate...I would expect your levels to rise.. to an unacceptable level.
I will only add another 2 fish which will be approx.. 3" each in length and that won't be for a while . Adding the fish will / should increase the nitrate
I do not have any live rock or sand yet for 2 reasons
1). All my LFS told be not to bother the times here).
2). The LFS that do stock it, only stock very poor quality rock.
Well the live rock is used for the reef so denitrification can take place ...hence the low nitrate readings. Thats the basis of a reef tank proper amount of live rock
I would certainly like to introduce live sand but I am not sure if I can do > this as my tank has live stock in it. I will be reading up on this over the > next weeks or so but in the mean time if you have any advise, please let me know. Yes adding any biological material now either rock or sand will cause problems with high ammonia and nitrite during the cycling dieoff process usually this will stress out existing fish or inverts If you havent already looked at my site, please do so in regards to the FAQ there and my talk to the beginner. You may find that helpful.Also see the survey as to amounts of rock others use.Look for the browser search FAQ.
Do you still favor fluorescent over MH lamps now that MH is available in high K values? That is one of the changes going to be made...yes, MH is OK depending on the use they definitely have their place and can be very useful. On the other hand personally I do prefer FLO lamps and lower light requiring creatures. Its just allot cheaper in the long run Lower light=lower cost
I have a couple of MH 175 watt Coral life pendants that I picked up used.
well sure, if you picked them up used go for it they are nice lights
What are the pro's and con's of using pendants? pro nice clean looking light "shimmering" on the surface. Powerful and direct, you can place high light corals rite under the bulb. corals do very well under mh light Pendants give you an open top for ++ evaporation good opportunity to add kalk.also probably gives a less cluttered look to the top of the tank....more high tech looking.
con possibility for heating the tank or making cooling difficult. More difficult to cool with a fan?? More coral growth = higher calcium demand you have to be on top of that..Calcium and alkalinity. Lamps are fairly expensive (but what isn't) they are from 80 to 100 ea and need replacing in a year max
I was considering replacing the 8 month old bulbs with 10K bulbs I've been hearing the 65K being more desirable... This is always changing I hear the 10 k are a greenish white and may need actinic (blue) supplementation. Using *just* 0r *only* 10 K may not be desirable. The real expert on this is my friend Sanjay Mani you can get his email address off of my survey send him a mail asking about using only 10K and you can tell him I sent you ( he is a very nice, well informed fellow and uses all kinds of MH.)
I was planning on having my rock over a 2-3" layer of sand. This would give the advantages of sand but not have the sand compressed. I really want to have the added biome of sand.
You can have some sand in the front but by using the liverock...sand is un necessary you can use *some* but 2-3 in....?? I wouldn't bother. Unless as in the book you *primarily* use sand to make up the Lbs per gal and less rock Ok but not both Just my opinion Look at my survey, see the substrate *most* people use and FWIW only a few there are readers of mine
I have another tank that I have been cycling with live rock for two weeks. Its a 30 gallon with a plenum. 1" of crushed coral, 1" inch of sand and 1" of live sand. I have 25 lbs of live rock. My question is on one side the crushed coral has this brownish green almost algae like stuff growing.. What is it is it normal??? Yes, I mean its not like its supposed to happen but I wouldn't be surprised at a small algae outbreak sounds like a typical cyano bacteria caused by cycling. Are you using purified tap water? If not that will cause algae..
I have not turned on the lights..Well its been 2 weeks so I would think its probably about time
My other question is I really Don't like the look of the tank I was thinking of starting over with an all live sand substrate what would I need to do change all of the water??? No not at all you can easily reuse the water.
I just really like the look of an all sand bottom.... I would need about 45 lbs of live sand right?? I'm not sure in a 30 but that sounds about rite depending on the actual thickness Does live sand help buffer the water?? That depends ... you say sand if its live sand from a reef or aragonite it will buffer the water slightly but not enough that you can depend on it as a sole means of buffering it helps...but you cant totally rely on it.
My other tank is a 30 gallon and I am having an extremely hard time getting the ph up to 8.2 - 8.3 it is about 7.9 to 8.1 I have tried seachem marine buffer and it wont work... First use a good salt mix like coralife or IO mix and test the batch it should be 8.2 from there you add kalk to elevate it and then the seachem will keep it there.
A friend gave me old Fuji rock that had been dry for a year from sitting in a box when he didn't want salt fish anymore....my question is can I clean and use this rock ? and put it in my wet/dry filter under the bio-balls does this help in anyway with the water dripping over it.
Well.. you can use it as a biological filter media IF you didn't have enough bio balls it would provide an area for bacteria to colonize
are there any benefits to this or drawbacks.... I doubt any real benefits other than if you desperately needed more area for biological filtration and had an excessively large sump. This depends on how many fish you have and how much waste being produced. A drawback may be that because the rock is uneven (unlike uniform bioball media) the aerobic action may be decreased on the flip side your anaerobic (denitrifying bacteria may increase possibly giving you some denitrification. You did not say how much rock or how many gallons of b balls you have or the size of your sump. Off the top of my head I would think to add it in the tank as a decoration, this will give you some denitrifying properties W/O interfering with the desirable aerobic action in the sump. If you want to give me more details I try and provide you with some ideas although I am mainly interested reef tanks.
The tank is going to be used as a grow out tank. I was planning on a center brace, a 3/16" acrylic piece about 10 inches wide, centered as you stated. humm.. I Don't know if that will be strong enough?? I assume you mean drilled down thru the top and into the front and back of the tank..like a spreader??I use solid wood epoxy coated and drilled thru the front and back and into the brace with long say 3" screws. Its VERY strong.
My plans are to start a small coral propagation business. I've already got the three local s/w reef stores buying my xenia Great! I belive that is going to be a up and coming field,home propagation as GARF does so well at describing. My hat is off to you and good luck.
How high should the top of the back support of the eggcrate be? How close to the top of the tank should it be? Does it matter?
Well, what matters (i think) is to have it high enough to be useful (displaying the rock) and at enough of an angle so the rock naturally stays supported (not too steep of an angle). Usually this will be about 4 inches below the top of the tank and about 1 1/ 2 to 2 in below the waterline. Try and follow exactly how its explained in the book. It will also be helpful to get a general idea by "laying it out" on a floor either some tape or lite pencil marks can give you a picture of the angle and lengths of pcs.Most vinyl tile floors have 12" squares so its pretty easy to get straight lines and increments in ft.
As far as creatures "walking out" That seems very logical but I've not experienced it.
The other questionable area is where you fasten the back- to the bottom. Here you want to have the back sloped enough so the rock will stay in place probably about a 70 to 75 degree angle. This usually leaves you with a VERY small looking bottom piece, but Don't worry...thats normal and the rock "overhangs"the front of the material so It will be bigger than it looks. Also pay close attention to allowing enough room for future cleaning access in this front area of the tank, you want A MINIMUM!! of 2inches from where the rock overhangs. There will be a strong temptation to stretch this, Don't. At your first and subsequent waterchanges you will be very glad you left this space. Not leaving enough...will force you to fight with it and you will regret not doing it. Try and make sure you remove all plastic clippings, another annoyance. I am very pleased to see you going with the eggcrate and I think once its done you will be too! Its a great system.Anything else let me know. Good Luck
What do you class as low nitrates? I am thinking of adding a few inverts to my aquarium but I have heard you need a zero reading of Nitrates to be successful. Mine are 15.
Low IMO is 10. 15 I doubt would be harmful but I would have a look at your liverock situation. Using around 1.5 lb per gal usually will give you close to complete denitrification. I am getting the impression that your tank is somehow out of balance, either too many fish or not enough live rock, too much feeding, improper spectrum of light for photosynthetic livestock who use nitrate in the photosynthesis process. In a established tank that is balanced...(ratio of waste producers to waste processors) zero nitrates are common and IMO indicate a *balanced* system. Although while getting to the state of balance, low nitrate reading are also common and not harmful.
NITRATE LEVELS / Cycling
it along its been a week and the level should start to drop shouldn't it? Will/is something causing it to slow its cycle? No, nothing is slowing it done (other than the lack of nitrobacter) which will occur naturally.Your first cycle is ammonia...then nitrite...and nitrate last Usually ammonia takes the longest, nitrite in less time in about 1/3 less time than the ammonia. This is common just let it happen! However, Don't add any more livestock untill you get a zero reading.
I have a Wet / Dry filter with bio balls I have heard they produce Nitrate how do I remove them?
Providing you have enough rock 1.5 lb per gal or the equivalent in sand and all parameters are OK ammonia and nitrite and the tank is fairly stable...remove approx 15% every week until they are all removed. This will give the nitrifying bacteria a good chance to relocate to the live rock or sand in relation to the tanks current bio load
We are cycling for the first time, do we need to get a zero ammonia, nitrite and nitrate reading before adding creatures?
You want to add ALL the live rock and then get a zero Ammonia and zero Nitrite reading. Depending on how much die-of is on the rock will determine how long the cycle takes.
I plan to do some painting I know I should cover the tank I was going to turn the pumps to the skimmer off to avoid inject more fumes than necessary and covering the entire tank with a plastic drop cloth, any other suggestions? That sounds OK, You know common sense...
Covering the tank.
Do you use a cover? I have used glass, plexi, and no cover. I prefer no cover I was of the opinion that cover glass cuts light output in the usable spectrum by at least 10%. I'm sure it does probably more so with the inevitable salt film that gets on the glass. wouldn’t this help lower my evaporation rate?. evaporation is GOOD! Opportunity to add kalkwasser to build calcium and raise pH not to mention substantial cooling in the summer months would thin acrylic be better? Acrylic always ends up sagging.. flip it over and it sags again, brace it and it will sag less but inevitably sag again. Acrylic also clouds over time The main benefit is, a cover will protect your bulbs. But they should be cleaned and wiped periodically anyway every 2 weeks or so. Again I find that no cover works best.
"Fish Only" Tank ?
The reason why I write to you is that I'm curious if your book would help fish-only tank. I understand that if I maintain the fish tank like a reef tank fish is going to be very happy. However, fish creates a lot more waste than coral and invertebrate do, so there should be slightly different approaches to run fish tank.. I'm using 240 pounds of live rock to cycle my tank right now and basically I don't see my tank as a pure fish-only tank.
As far as your tank goes I think trying to have both worlds a [fish only] and [240 LB of live rock] can possibly lead to problems i.e.: Fish produce waste ammonia and phosphate ammonia will get broken down to nitrate and eventually nitrogen gas, but the phosphate will still have to be dealt with very strong skimming and if not dramatically reduced you may have substantial algae that will cover the rock. So if you have acquired the live rock I would suggest FAVORING reef principals (minimum fish) and lean in that direction. Really with all that rock in the tank I don't see allot of happy fish unless they are very small. IMO trying to have allot of fish may end up ruining allot of live rock.
Basic modern reef principals are
Live Rock
What is meant by curing live rock?
Live rock contains millions of life forms on it when it gets shipped or moved from one environment to another a certain amount of "die off" of these life forms occur. So uncured rock is usually ammonia laden and "curing" it really means to cycle it. Ammonia to nitrite to nitrate, when you have zero ammonia and nitrite you will get faint nitrate readings indicating it cycled or cured. Depending on how much dieoff is on the rock determines how long the cycle takes.It can be anywhere from 2 to 8 weeks or even longer!
Is it really necessary to place live rock in a curing tank for long durations of time?
If you don't have any other life forms in your tank you can by all means use your tank. If you have only a few creatures or fish you may want to temporarily relocate them . Definitely do not try and cycle with other livestock as the ammonia readings will skyrocket and the best thing to do is just let it happen, and it will happen.
It would be a pain to supply a separate tank with filtering equipment to cure my rock.
You don't really need filtering equipment... to cycle the rock, it can be done in a clean read new garbage can or a clean garbage can with several liners and a few decent air stones. Personally I prefer to use the tank W/O livestock.
I have added my live rock that was supposed to be cured... there seems to be more stuff dying should I add hermit crabs or snails?
Don't worry about the dieoff,just Don't add any livestock AT ALL. Absolutely nothing untill you have a full cycle with zero ammonia and nitrite with a faint nitrate reading then you are ready for hermits or snails.
LIVE ROCK PLACEMENT
I have a 200g built in to a wall that is visible from both sides. How wide front to back? Left to right?
I intend on piling live rock down the middle to make a mound and cave structure that is visible from both sides. I feel like I can only put about 100lbs of rock in here before I lose the view through effect. The question I have is should I fluff the system out with plastic media since I can't put enough rock in? or should I still lose my plastic and just use the sand and rock as bio filters?
There are a few approaches
here are some sources
If you call tell them I sent you, especially Jack he will accommodate youModern Plastics 800-243-9696 ask for Raul Flores
../stanks.htm the # and prices are there ask for Jack
Spaghetti Worms
I'm currently in tank curing my Live Rock. 2 days ago, I noticed a 2 inch tentacle sticking out of a piece of rock and pushing a thinner piece of tentacle into the live sand. It sounds like spaghetti worms very common in live rock and are beneficial in the tank. Have a look in the tank with a flashlight after the lights have been off for a while, you will probably see more of these worms fully expanded and other strange creatures.
On one piece of live rock from Fiji, there is a white substance forming that cannot be removed by vacuum. Do you have any idea what this is?
Usually anything white is dead although your are saying "its forming" leads me to believe that is some sort of encrusting octocoral or gorgonian. If its gorgonian... eventually you will see little polyps popping out that will become a mat or shag (lite pink in color) like covering on the patch that's growing. Or, it can be some kind of octocoral that will develop, have to wait and see.I take it this growth is hard, relatively thin and smooth?
What should I do about it?
just observe... that's what happens with live rock some things die off and new life forms take over. A very interesting part of keeping a reef tank. It sounds like your tank is doing very well, so what ever your doing... keep doing it!
I have about 15-20 lbs. of sand left over. I would like to place it in my sump. It would be like a denitrater/refugia. What do you think?
If you have enough live rock you shouldn't need a denitrator. As far as refugia yea...but only if you have enough room not in there with other pumps and in bags etc. A *sperate* sump for actual refugia w/o being cramped some minimal lighting where stuff can be left undisturbed to actually grow ok Personally I don't like stuff in sump for reasons as ... being unnecessary...taking away water volume from the sump, building up unseen detritus and who knows what. Unless you have a very large sump area...I wouldn't do it. You just don't need it.
Removing Crabs, Bristleworms, Mantis shrimp from live rock
Place the rock in a tub and cover with wet newspapers (water from the tank) go away for about an hour+ or so... then quickly remove the newspaper and be ready to deal with the crabs/bristleworms etc. Using this method usually works, they come out of hiding looking for water. I'm a little tired but wanted to answer your ? You may have to repeat this a couple of times.
How to remove undesirable creatures
Those can be removed if necessary but that’s smarter not to do for now. Is it the same rock the worm is in?
Would the anemone live for an hour out of the water in the plastic box.
No, I wouldn't want to be limited by worrying about if the anemone would make it of not.
This is what I would do
If the anemone does not come off... and you REALLY
want to get the crab the only other way I can think of is to simply split
the rock with a hammer and chisel (while carefully leaving the anemone
in tact.
These crabs have 2 claws, six legs=color dark gray. body kind of oval. They barricade themselves in the rock holes during the day time. If it looks something like This I would do everything possible(within reason) to get rid of it. Rock crabs can be a nasty predators.
I just read in Fama magazine today that bristleworms clean up the reef sand and are beneficial. Yes they are useful to the sand but they can eat zoanthids polyps etc. Also they can get very large!! I have had 12in+ fall out of rock when it was taken out and moved So one that size is eating something!!!!
Unless they multiply in excess it recommended to leave them alone. What do you think?
You can wait and see Its funny some creatures of the same species have different levels of aggressiveness. I would try the nylon on fishing line and see what you come up with
I was wondering what your opinion on the Arrow-crab was. I've heard they may eat bristle worms but I've also heard that they might like feather-dusters. Is there any truth in that ? Not in my experience, but EVERYONE ELSE seems to say that! I am always hearing stories about the same creatures with different habits. These Arrow crabs, chocolate chip stars, pencil urchins etc. The Arrow crab is very interesting and will probably eat bristle worms and he "might" eat your duster worms also So I would not get him, because you seem to have so many it would be a shame to have them disappear!
Were there bristle worms in the bottom of the shipping box? One way to have a look to see any is again, after the lights are out for about an hour or so carefully examine the tank with a flashlight (you know I like that) <g> and if you see any either use the nylon stocking or trap and this will usually eradicate them. If not a more drastic method is to remove the rock for a few hours till they fall out. see faq1.htm I understand it would be easier to have a natural predator, But there always seems to be other possible hazards that go along with that.
How much of a problem can bristleworms be ? How much devastation can they cause ?
IMO their destruction is subtle for the most part, they Aren’t that bad but its odd..not all creatures of the same species have the exact same habits. Generally bristle worms are considered to be destructive especially when they get large I have removed up to 12 in + now that fellow isn’t eating just sand! I'm sure they eat some polyps, sea mat, gorgonia but that what you will find in the long run...some stuff disappears and other life forms take its place. The best advice I can give is to remove what is obvious as in shipping and washing the rock. watch the tank as to what you have and what seems to be missing, if you begin to see life mysteriously disappear then take corrective measures. For bristle worms look with a light to see them and remove what you can VIA various methods traps nylon stocking with bait, more drastic remove the rock cover and wait until they fall out.
I saw one larval looking critter cruising the rock. Didn't really look like the Isopods in your book. Difficult to describe really. Could it be something else ?
Does it look like a small shrimp? Hard to say of course, have to see what develops The only really BAD creatures are the bristle worms, mantis shrimp and an occasional isopod although they are fairly rare. To me that’s the really fascinating aspect of the hobby... we don’t know what allot of these creatures in /from the live rock are!! Most are harmless Just keep an eye on everything Observation, habits, make notes etc.
What about cleaner shrimp? Definitely get several 3 or 4 + they are really nice and extremely hardy also that’s one foolproof critter in relation to providing a benefit...If your fish ever get ich they take care of it pronto (with no side effects) <g>
Decorator Crabs ? Those are neat. You see this thing that looks dressed up walking around very interesting and they change decorations...this week some sponge and coralline, next wk some gorgonian and a sprig of algae. They are never out of style!
Plenums
I would appreciate your opinion on using the plenum method in a reef system.
You have to ask yourself why a plenum/live sand filter is useful? Most claim it to be a complete nitrification and denitrification system and for the most part it is. However, so is an all liverock or Berlin system. The fact is, virtually complete biological filtration (nitrification and denitrification to nitrogen gas)will take place in both methods. IMO problems occur when one adds more than 2 LB per gallon of sand or rock.My best expression of this is the system becomes biologically dense i.e.: too much area for bacteria to colonize and detritus to accumulate without enough water volume ratio and turnover.
My suggestion is to have 1.5 to 1.75 LB of sand or rock. This seems to be a good rule of thumb ratio - material to water. As an example a 55 gallon plenum system takes 80 lb. of sand for the required minimum thickness of 2 1/2 inches and comes out to 1.45 lb. per gallon.So, using the rule of thumb of LB per gal doesn't leave much for live rock. It then becomes a different looking tank. Even if you decide to overshoot the suggested LB per gal and place rock on the sand and corals on the rock then IMO you begin to have dead spots under and behind the rock where detritus cant not be removed W/O moving animals around. This is just my opinion and what I personally experienced. I have an aversion to detritus and believe in constant removing of waste important.This is best achieved using my eggcrate method which basically is a framework of eggcrate material cleverly designed and incorporating a spray bar as the main return to the bottom rear of the tank pushing all detritus to the front for easy removal.
On the other hand...some people are absolutely unconcerned about detritus.
I would like your opinion on using a NNR system with it. Was this system preferred before the new high efficiency skimmers were available?
I believe it was found to harbor denitrifying bacteria and very low nitrates and then deemed a breakthrough for denitrification. Years ago, It was thought to stuff as much live rock as could fit in the tank to achieve nitrification and denitrification (a little is good more must be better) the result was having hobbyists tanks that were setup for 1 yr. to 18 months to have unexplainable unmanageable algae outbreaks. This was then attributed to having too much rock where nutrients build up unseen.It also turned otherwise good quality rock to base rock as lighting wasn't able to get to the stacked rock. This meant a complete takedown and 75% water change and removal of un necessary rock. At that point a rule of thumb was established.
I was told that the ETS could starve some soft corals. Was this bad info?
That all depends who you talk with and what group you want to subscribe to and what type of maintenance schedule is involved.One of the most significant agreed upon points is, that there are as many methods of keeping a reef as there are people doing it. Personally I have a large ETS and almost all soft corals with no ill effects at all. A monthly WC of say 15% with a high quality salt along with regular kalk, strontium and iodine additions and high turnover rates of water in the tank and proper lighting does the trick for me.
Potential problems with plenums
Yes, I too have had an persistent algae problem while running a NNR plenum system. This occurred at approx one year to 14 months. I “unscientifically” attributed the problem to detritus buildup and high nutrient levels. I then took the system down, re-setup with a bare bottom, raised rock system and the algae disappeared. I find this discussion very interesting regarding the “success” of this type of system. Can all this be a coincidence? I don't think so. This NNR as I understood it was to eliminate/drastically reduce waterchanges. A “too good to be true” system. NNR or natural nitrate reduction is, I would think, just what it says. We all know that nitrate will get reduced with the correct amount of “live” rock or sand in relation to the bio-load of the tank. It is my opinion using the *correct* amount will have a large role in the long term “success” of the aquarium. I use and recommend 1.5 to 1.75 lb. per gal. Using too much live sand or rock can trap debris/detritus going unseen and building up a food source for micro-algae as well as being unfavorably biologically dense for the enclosed system. In my system ( a55 gall) , the 1.75 “ approx sand thickness came out to be 80lbs or 1.45 lbs per gallon. I also added approx 50 lb of live rock bringing it to over 2.36 lbs per gallon. This leads me to believe that excessive biological medium ie:live sand or rock becomes “un-manageable” regarding nutrient build-up over extended periods of time. This is Jauberts patent site
Overflow Problem
I have a Dutch aquarium with a protein skimmer.
I'm not too familiar with a "Dutch" aquarium as far as I know that is a heavily planted fresh water tank???
What size is the protein skimmer and make / manufacturer? How much live rock do you have?
I have about 65lbs of live rock in the aquarium now and was planning on adding more later. Ideally you want 1.5 lb of liverock per gallon My tank has only been running for about 4 wks. thats not very long....Its probably still cycling have you tested for ammonia? nitrite? nitrate?
The algae is green and grows so ridiculously fast that I'm afraid that it will suffocate the tank. It floats on the surface and pretty much stops surface water flow. It's kind of brought my operation to a halt. yes thats not good. at all I strongly suggest adding a surface skimmer box you should be able to find one at your local fish store or If you need some suggestions of suppliers on the net see my links page one of them will be happy to get something for you Eddie at monolith or Marc at Northcoast or Brian at Reefers mail them or call Untill then You "should" manually remove the algae you Don't have to be fanatical just get rid (dispose of) most of it.
(you need a surface skimmer box)
Is there an animal that eats surface algae.
No, You shouldn't have ANY surface algae
You should be "surface skimming" meaning ALL the water to feed your protein skimmer or filter should be taken from the surface of the tank. This is usually done with an overflow box or the tank drilled with a fitting thru the top back wall so as the water is getting pumped into the tank...it then overflows into this fitting or overflow box. So the water to feed the skimmer is taken from the surface and will eliminate your problem. This is the method used in 99% of reef systems
Drip plate Construction and Flow Rate
Where should the output of the skimmer go? Right now there's only one water "area" in the sump. do I need to separate the areas of the sump into clean and dirty sections? I don't know where to put the prefilter, or really how to construct it (materials, etc.).
what material should I use for the drip plate?
well depending on exactly what you are using for a sump i.e.: a trickle filter already has a driplate and basically you would want to fashion one like that. If you use a fish tank for a sump you will have to make a driplate out of Plexiglas. Basically its a square or rectangular box with hole in the bottom and sides and ideally with a small strip as a anti splash guard.
Do I need to line it with some sort of filter material?
No looking at the diagram, the vertical pcs under the driplate are pcs of PVC used as legs to support a piece of eggcrate material (lighting diffuser in suspended ceilings)The prefilter material is supported by the eggcrate and the driplate sits on top of the PFM One of my adamant recommendations is to frequently change and or clean the PFM (weekly) The material I find to work well and affordable is the Marineland cut to fit its like 1/2 in thick and blue in color cost approx $4 for a piece 24x24 this can be cut to the exact size of your sump dimensions so all water has to go through This would also be known as a mechanical filter
How difficult is plexiglass to work with?
Plexi is VERY easy to work with once you can get comfortable with it. One of the MAIN things is to get the rite adhesive. This is found at good suppliers ie yellow pages plastic/sheets/rods/tubing. Once you get a good supplier you are all set. The glues range from instant set ---- to -----s l o w --- set. Instant is good to line up pcs and the slow is good for building up and a permanent bond. I will try and dig up something about adhesives and plexi for you with your order. The glue is VERY inexpensive $3 will but a lifetime supply of one kind. If you plan to use instant set make sure you get the applicator .59 this is a small bottle with a needle tip that applies the water consistency product. If you have trouble finding the product Modern Plastics in CT will ship to you there 800# is on my site.
What exactly is the "eggcrate" material?
Eggcrate is a plastic grid like material sold in 2x4 ft sheets white is very common black is more difficult to locate. This material is a.k.a. lighting diffuser used in light covers in suspended ceilings.
Where do I get it?
White can be found at any home improvement center black is found only at specialized plastic supplier. Modern in CT has it and will ship. White = $5 ea. Black = $8 ea.
Is it bad to prefilter before going into the skimmer?
Not "bad" but possibly less desirable not detrimental though.
Also -- instead of holding the prefilter up with PVC, I am going to glue it to the corner of the sump a couple of inches above water level.
Uh hmmmm I don’t know if that’s a good idea? You want to have everything removable so when you perform maintenance it all comes apart easily. I don’t want to appear dogmatic ;-) but I would try to implement the PVC stands, with eggcrate/ prefilter/driplate, its very inexpensive you can even use the common white in the sump.
I really just want to force the water to flow through the prefilter material.
Not forcing, solely by gravity. the water gets collected in this DP and then *drips* through evenly depending on your holes.As the drip holes are fairly even this disperses the water evenly through the PF Material. What will REALLY make a difference is your flow rate obviously the higher the FR more burden will be on the DP Give me an idea of your pump GPH I should then be able to give you a ballpark estimated size or the DP
Also, what are the advantages of placing the prefilter AFTER the skimmer?
IMO a good skimmer will be able to handle the bulk of waste. Then the PF filters out any remaining particles. It sound contradictory PF after should be FF (final filter) but having the PF before tends to get crudded up and could seriously restrict flow
Why do you sandwich the pre-filter material in-between egg-crate and the drip-plate? Why not just put it in the actual drip-plate box? I couldn't find it in your book.
The purpose of the DP is to evenly disperse the flowing water over and thru the PF material
I'm using a Rio2500 connected to an ETS Reef Devil, and another Rio 2500 pumping water back up to the tank via 5/8" tubing.
Is that the recommended pump? That is a submersible rite? I'm not a big fan of submersibles ;-) you see in the book, but I'm sure it will work. Even with the Rio which supposed to put out 700GPH I think you will need a fairly sizable DP Say like min. 10x10 or better yet 1/3 of the top of sump. When you use a good size DP, the water/air/gas/ exchange is better in relation to its size. IMO bigger=better, of course up to a point. I really don’t think it matters on your end how big this DP has to be,not like your constricted by a small size sump that "has to work". One of the most common mistakes I observe by hobbyists is skimping, going small, and "making everything fit" I hate that! Also being excessively cheap gets up my dander too... ;-) I'm the first one who likes to be frugal, BUT when coming to size and setup I like a lot of free flow of water that keeps everything highly oxygenated (a seriously overlooked concept) To give you an idea of my system, of course I'm not suggesting this is the only way, just to give you an idea. on my 200 24x24x84 uses a 24x24x24 sump=45gallons I have
So I would try and shoot for 1/3 of the top
of sump with 1/4 holes spaced approx 1 to 1 1/4" apart.
My overflow is noisy what can I do?
My sump is filled with millions of bubbles, and they are being returned to my main tank! How can I make it stop?
If you have the return from the skimmer.. going onto the dripplate.. then thru the prefilter material, that will eliminate any bubbles.
Usually this is a problem when the return from the skimmer is in the same area <intake> for the return to the tank.This is one of the main reasons for setting up the /skimmer/sump/clean/dirty side as I do.
On the other hand I am aware that nothing is in stone and individual circumstances can dictate straying from a particular method. Doing that you will need other modifications such as a block of foam, some floss material to trap the bubbles, or plexi walls <mini dams> to act as settling chambers for the bubbles. The foam or floss can lead to problems with the trap becoming biologically active and trapping waste as well, unless you give it the same attention as I recommend to the prefilter.
Have you solved your problem with the air intake of the skimmer? What is usually suggested is to make a muffler ;-) out of some small tupperware or rubbermaid products with small 1/4 in holes in it and filled with floss material connected with flexible vinyl tubing. Use a threaded X insert fitting the size of your tubing. Or Just run a long enough hose to an area where the sound wont be noticed. (as much)<g>
Water flow
I am trying to get good circulation in 6' long 2' deep tanks.
hmm... personally I never cared for power heads in the tank as they tend to suck in curious creatures and can stop working from time to time ( having to get your hand in there to tweak it again) I like to use a spraybar on the bottom rear of the tank with a good size pump and have the rock on eggcrate. You'll see in the book.
Also I have a 10 gallon what I've come to find the actual name is "Carlson surge device" Works great but its a bit noisy...although your garage sounds like it could easily handle it. The surge device works great! 10 gallons siphons out in 1min. and takes approx 10 min to fill. I have been thinking of doing one with an 1 1/2" PVC that would SERIOUSLY discharge some water!! In my 200 I also have a few mag 500 GPH kicking around that I was contemplating setting up from the sump to a small spraybar on one side of the tank. I just don't know if I am willing to pay for the extra electricity for another water movement source.
As far as water flow I have 2 large 1200GPH 1 for the skimmer 1 for the main and 10 gall surge device. For some the SD is too big and loud... I don't mind it and in fact mine isn't really THAT loud I have covers and a brace inside that keeps the noise down...it works great! although it takes a bit of patience to get it to work just rite. I think that feeding the pump from the sump is a better idea than from in the tank and if not the SD then a small magdrive possibly on a random timer
Kalkwasser</
