BRISTLEWORMS
 I will be adding a few more LBS. of live rock this weekend and was hoping you could tell me of any way to eliminate those unwanted guests "BRISTLE WORMS" before I add the rock to my display tank.I have heard of a few of ways to do this. One way of course is the trusty old Arrow Crab (I have already in tank), but I am hoping to resolve this before the live rock goes into my display tank. Two other methods I have briefly heard about are: 1) Dip the live rock in fresh
DI/RO water and this will force them out; or 2) Dip the rock in some  carbonated water which the carbon dioxide gas will force them out. Don't know of anybody that has tried these methods yet?
One concern is if these methods will work, what problems might they cause if the live rock is already "CURED". I guess it could kill coralline algae's or anything else which is beneficial for the rock?

Ok those are bristle worms and a natural occurrence in live rock. They used to be considered bad for the tank as they were thought to eat coral. The new thinking is that they are good and serve a purpose stirring the sand and processing detritus. I'm fairly sure these are what you have. They are a pinkish flesh color with whitish fury looking legs those are bristle worms, they can get large!! I have personally seen them 12 inches in length needless to say I got rid of it. Smaller ones do a good service to the tank.Other similar looking worms but different colors deep solid red are fireworms and will give you a very bad sting. These are more unusual to have and I would get rid of them if I had one.

The opinion of bristle worms is changing... especially if you have sand. They are detrivores and do a very good job churning the sand. A few years ago, they were thought to eat corals etc. and its a possibility that they might, but if you use sand it is considered good to have bristle worms.
However if you want to get rid of them here are some ideas from my FAQ page

yes the reproduce very easily... one other suggestion is to look at the tank
after the lights have been off for about 2 hours. Use a flashlight and try not
to make vibrations on the floor when you walk. You should see creatures that
you do not see during the day

I've read your post about problem algae. When was the last time you replaced your light bulbs? That sometimes can contribute to algae (shifted  spectrum) Also, how old is the spectrapure inner resin?
You seem to have everything in order but do not mention the age of the above. Also I would recommend (personally) to use all kalk only...for make up water It seems strange to me that the snails are dying. IME some snails can be fairly delicate however over a reasonably short period of time 1 year +  they should begin to reproduce in your tank. Then you end up with a much hardier snail.Typically the
asteras reproduce fairly easily, at least mine do.

 I have your book and have been changing water one week then the next.  Its a 30 gal with 30 lbs live rock 2 inches of crushed coral substrate bak pak filter skimmer and 110 watt of light.
 I have huge bushes of hair algae and my nitrates are 70 or so.  I have been considering a CPR wet dry filter would this help my problem or make it worse???  Would I need a sump box??  Please help real frustrated...

The most common causes for algae are

• using non purified tap water. are you using ro or di water? You should.

• Old light bulbs. I remember you had just got a new light setup.. are the lamps new?

• overfeeding I would only feed every 3 days or so

• in adequate skimming what kind of skimmer are you using? a backpack is probably good for a 30.

• how old is the resin in the ro/di?  you know that gets expended.. maybe have to replace it

• sounds like the algae is getting a food source from somewhere... I have to think its the source water.

you say you have 110 watts from what I remember you purchased a much more Powerful setup than that.
Look into the source water

A wet dry will produce nitrate so I would definitely not use it
Let me know the answers to the above

I would, I bet that is where the nitrate is coming from. Remove it and then test the nitrate in a week or so. I bet you have zero

I plan to test Nitrate again tonight the tank looks better overall tonight  than before I did this get rid of algae stuff.

Ok it will probably take about a week for you to see noticeable drop in nitrate, but you should definitely see much lower numbers in that time span.You also *may* see an increase of ammonia (Don't worry about it) as the bacteria relocate to your rock & sand.Again, without knowing your tank... I would suspect the water, silicates usually. Maybe time for a redo of the internals of the water purification system?

I don't keep octopus, but from what I understand they like fresh fish. Small shiners kellys, or the like.
However introducing live food form questionable sources can be problematic in a reef tank. Also, they are escape artists and constantly try to get out or in your filtration. You may want to try some small fresh fish. Was it eating at  one time in captivity by you? If it was chances are it will again eat. Sorry I cant be of more help. They are very interesting creatures but usually don't do well in captivity.

I agree with the moral and ethical values of reef conservation. Its very interesting to observe that most hobbyists share this same belief. One of the main facts is that some creatures do extremely well in captivity, others do not. My recommendation is that by getting a  better understanding of the needs of the
less demanding creatures further enhances the hobbyists knowledge of husbandry n general, and therefor a good thing.A small example is the coral Xenia, a few years ago this creature was so delicate it could barely be shipped. Through the dedication of some hobbyists this coral today is easily tank raised, propagated and exchanged amongst hobbyists. some say it "grows like a weed". This coral has become a tank raised species something unheard of a few years ago.

 Do you know of anyone that sells tropical fish in captivity ?

You must mean captive bred. Yes, I'm all for captive raised species. In fact several companies are doing just that. Unless the hobbyist is very wealthy, deaths of fragile creatures put a damper on keeping a reef tank for most people, who wants to keep removing dead creatures from the tank? Not very rewarding.What does make the hobby interesting is... exchanging information amongst those who
are experienced thereby minimizing costly mistakes. With the advent of the internet, the hobby has, I believe,  become as informed and conscience of the responsibility that goes along with keeping a reef aquarium.

Hobbyists today are making their own liverock and propagating corals have you
seen the GARF website? have a look this is a favorite site of hobbyists
http://www.cyberhighway.net/~algae/

aquarists we should promote the use of these rather than animals from the  wild.
 What do you think ? Have we done enough damage ?

I think more damage has been done in the past by inexperience and greed. My impression of the state of the hobby today is that most end users, hobbyists, are more informed than ever, and continue seeking out knowledge to expand their husbandry skills while also being aware of unethical practices by greedy
suppliers.

Get a skimmer rated for twice the volume of your tank or for a 150 gallon. I like the downdrafts. Venturi skimmers are a second choice, counter current last due to relatively high maintenance i.e.: changing air blocks, air pumps etc. For an online supplier, I use Brian @ reefers http://www.acropora.com. I'm sure he can direct you to the exact skimmer for your needs

don't get me wrong Its good stuff... but for some it can cause problems. Myself
I did not have problems but discontinued because I could not justify the cost.

 As I mentioned before all the additives I am currently using are (Kent Iodine Strontium/Molydm - Coral-vite &  Seachem Reef Calcium).
 You said using kalkwasser is the best way to go for maintaining  calcium.

Yes definitely

 From what I have heard kalkwasser usually will not go over300-350 ppm, so to raise that to 400-450 then you need to add a  additional calcium supplement?

Well it depends on who you talk to and what animals you keep. If you have an *extremely high demand* than yes you may want to add a reactor. Looking at your specs below I really don't see ...any calcium demand other than coralline. My point, kalk will be fine

This is why I am starting to use Reef calcium. Seachem states this is 175x more calcium than kalk?

I doubt it <g>

 I believe  it is a polygluconate with some strontium and magnesium? Am I going to cause problems this way. I was going to start using the new 2-part calcium like Kent-TectraCB or C-Balance but they also raise Alkalinity  which my Superbuffer should already be maintaining. Confusing huh!

C balance is good and you wont need the buffer then. However it is expensive over the long run. Kalk is much more economical especially if you use a food grade kalk i.e. pickling lime $1.40lb

You may want to get some more live rock, as I said 1.5 to 1.75 lb per gal of rock or sand for complete denitrification. One downside to adding a substantial amount of rock will be a significant cycle that *will* stress the fish.. high ammonia high nitrite temporarily 2 weeks or so.As far as removing the media,
when your confident that you have enough rock and sand per gal, start removing something like 25% per week, that will make a seamless transition of your biological bacteria.

Thats not too good. Most believe in high evaporation to maintain calcium via kalk. I evaporation a minimum or 15 gal per wk in my 200 now a 255 with refugium.You should have fans in your hood which will increase evaporation and some go as far as placing fans (sometimes very large fans) over the sump. The more air movement= evaporation = more frequent or larger doses of kalk. I would say a 55 should do about 5 gal per week and added in 2  2.5 gal increments. You add the kalk in the am when the pH is lowest. Mix in the pm let settle then dose in am

So I will be adding this probably once a week. What is the rule of thumb for adding how much in a period of time? Is it one drop per second?

depends the size of the drop <grin> using an airline tube the drops are large, an IV bag they are small. I would recommend airline with a reliable clamp and dose the 2.5 gal in a 24 hr period you will be fine.The MAIN thing is to make the adding water to the container/mixing/dosing as EASY as possible so it is
not a dreaded inconvenience. Thats the main trick! I use a 5 gal bucket with a pump at the bottom and a water supply right in the bucket. Fill... add kalk... turn on powerhead...mix for 4 hours or so... unplug powerhead... let settle for about an hour... then drip in. I drip 5 gal in about an hour through airline w/o clamp

 I need to be careful not to raise the PH too fast right.

yes add in the am pH is lowest then

Is it good? an improvement from what you had?  Sorry, but I cant really
understand your chart below Maybe something like week 1 nitrate =90ppm
week 2 nitrate =80ppm
week 3 nitrate =60ppm
week 4 nitrate =40ppm

(the test is done with FASTEST master kit)
                      I                  I    /
 my tank has the size I                  I   /
                      I                  45  40
                      I                  I /
                      I------ 75 --------I/

I have same 3 corals but they are not alive.2 (little) clownfish 1  damsel 4 little stars 1 anemone from my Adriatic see 5-6 cm crushed  coral and sand are on the bottom

Sounds ok the crushed coral bottom will provide the nitrification and
denitrification. Do you use a protein skimmer?

Yes the dominos are cute... but aggressive and can end up being a nuisance. Your tank looks good. If you like, send me some specific size filtration type of animals etc., and if you have another picture to make it more interesting.. I will happily put it on the web for you!

I re-read your guest book response to refresh my memory about my response to you. As I recall getting
different advise was one of the topics. The internet can give us some easy accessible info but separating
the good for the not so good is a problem. I get that allot about people asking about a creature displaying certain behavior and my exp. is much different from others. I've come to the conclusion the same species can exhibit opposite behavior. My book is not the flashiest but makes up for it in content. In the past few months I have been working on  a revised edition with all new images and about 50+ pages of text. The updated package will be available FREE to anyone who has the book and fills out the questionnaire.
(enclosed in ea. book) The new version will contain many new tips & techniques as well as some changes in my opinion of the enclosed reef set up. Diag for a chiller/dd skimmer/ca reactor/ refugium/ new setups/plumbing and much more

I noticed you asking about what to feed your anemones... I would highly advise this home made food It is a recipe from Dr. Sanjay Joshi and he is allowing me to include it in my new version below is a rough draft
of the text give it a try Its great stuff. I did some feeding with frozen food but this has it hands down!!

Homemade food recipe. One of the best food sources for your tank can be home made and when you try this I doubt if you will go back to any other type of food. The fish and corals absolutely love this. It is
very inexpensive to make and for about $10 or so you can make at least a six months supply. Here is how. This recipe comes from Dr. Sanjay Joshi of  and is passed on with his permission.

• Go to a oriental food store and buy some nori (seaweed in sheets) unseasoned.

• From your favorite food store buy 1/4 lb. of fresh ea. of  squid, clams, mussels, fish filleted, scallops, shrimp.

• Put the seafood in a blender and puree adding water to get a consistency of thick soup.

• Then take 2 or 3 sheets of nori cut into one inch strips and add to the blender, add more water to maintain the thick soup consistency.

• Then simply put about 3 tablespoons into a small sandwich bag, repeat until you use all the mix, double bag the excesses and freeze. when you want to feed break off one third of the bag defrost slightly then add it to the tank.

so that's 190 watts divided by 40 gal = 4.75 watts per gallon which in my opinion is adequate or slightly above adequate. It really depends on Exactly what type of creatures you plan to keep. It would be minimum for allot of stony polyp corals or clams. Although, this is probably not the creatures you plan to keep. Most long polyp stonys and *all* soft corals this arrangement would be great.

 I'm  thinking about getting the ballast from Coralife.

I would definitely not get the coralife... I've never heard anything good about them, other than they are convenient <g> Your best bet would be to go with an icecap ballast **much much better**.If you have time check out my survey link below to see what others use. Myself I have used standard supply house tar ballast's tar type. And have upgraded to icecap they are really nice. Also I like URI bulbs URI stands for the company ultraviolet resources. They have ads in fama (although ordering direct from them will cost more than getting them online. I use Brian @ reefers he is on my links page.

No I mean *no media* at all. The live rock does all the biological filtering so you don't need a secondary filter! In fact a separate filter will INCREASE your nitrate levels... This is all in  my book.

 2. I've ORDERED MY SECOND ICE CAP -- PLUS 4 URL 110W BULBS.  2 ACTINIC WHITE AND 2 ACTINIC 03.  IS THERE SOMEWHERE TO GET MORE INFO ON THESE BULBS.  I've READ SOMETHING SOMEWHERE BUT CAN'T FIND IT AND REMEMBER ONLY ENOUGH TO KNOW THERE IS MORE TO THEM THAT I SHOULD KNOW.

That sounds great. Ice cap and URI are a great combination. The most important thing to know is to replace the bulbs in about 6 to 8 months. Other than that its just technicalities that are in my opinion ..un important. For some more info look on my links page for online dealers they should have more info

 3.  CHEMICALS.  KALKWASSER -- I NOTE THAT KENT HAS A POWDER ,  I ASSUME THAT I'LL JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PACKAGE.  ANYTHING ELSE I WOULD FIND HELPFUL?

yes that's good I would follow the instructions in my book though as they are much more detailed.Also an excellent alternative to the high price kalkwasser is simply balls pickle lime. same thing.. calcium hydroxide price difference is about $1.49 for balls... $11.99 for kalkwasser. You will use allot of this
stuff so I would buy a case of balls

LUGOLS IODINE.  I've FOUND NOTHING THAT FITS THIS DESCRIPTION -- COULD  YOU GIVE ME A BRAND NAME, OR SOME MORE INFORMATION.

go to  a pharmacy (not a chain, but a small mom & pop) and ask for lugols solution about 12 a pint will last a life time...some states you need a prescription just tell them what your using it for... a trace element for a reef tank

ESV STRONTIUM -- I've FOUND KENT HAS A STRONTIUM, BUT NOTHING ABOUT ESV --

ESV is a brand name of a very good company that produces chemicals for the tank. THey tell you on the label what the concentration is the strontium is about 12 a pint also and will last at least a year see my links for a online dealer

WHAT SHOULD THIS NOVICE KNOW THAT TO OTHERS IS COMMON KNOWLEDGE?

 off the top of my head I would keep it as simple as possible... you don't have to get all caught up as if it were surgery or something... its very easy. And the tank ends up taking care of its self.I would suggest reading or referring to
my talk METELSKY.HTM
my main FAQ page this should answer most of your questions
Q&A/F_A_Q.HTML
my links page Links
and my survey at the bottom of this message as to see what others use etc.

Is this after the cycle? did you have a cycle? usually when you set up a tank the live rock has some dieoff that takes at least 2 weeks to cycle out. Ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. Did you add *everything* liverock corals fish all at the same time?

 SALT,  I 'M RUNNING AT .024   WAS TOLD THAT SEVERAL FIND THAT THEY HAVE GREAT SUCCESS AT RUNNING CLOSE TO SEA WATER BETWEEN .024 AND .026.  SO FAR ITS TOO EARLY TO SEE RESULTS,

usually .024 is fine .026 isn't that much different

 WHAT DO YOU THINK?  CALCIUM IS  BETWEEN 450 AND 500.  TEMP.  IS HOLDING AT 78 TO 79.   LIGHTING IS 440 WATTS PER 90 GAL . = 4.89 WATTS PER GAL.DOES THIS SOUND LIKE GOOD CONDITIONS ???

all sounds very good. The only thing that concerns me is the lack of a cycle. Usually livestock is added in stages to minimize any adverse cycling problems

 MY BIG QUESTION OF THE DAY IS ADHESIVE.   BEEN READING ABOUT EPOXY TO USE
 IN THE TANK.  WAS TOLD THAT I NEEDED TO GO TO A MARINE SHOP TO GET
 SOMETHING THAT WOULD WORK UNDER WATER .   ALL THEY HAD WAS A SEALANT THAT  THEY SAID HAD A VERY GOOD ADHESIVE QUALITY.    SAYS "THE ADHESION OF
 POLYURETHANE PLUS THE FLEXIBITY OF SILICONE"       WHAT DO YOU THINK?

No I wouldn't use it

 COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING IN REGULAR EPXOYS THAT MENTIONED  ANYTHING ABOUT BEING USEABLE UNDER WATER,  LET ALONE SALT WATER.  I STILL  WANT TO SECURE A FEW OF THE ROCKS  AND TO SET SOME OF THE CORALS ONTO  LEDGES SO THEY WON'T GET KNOCKED OVER BY EVERY SNAIIL WHO PASSES  BY.

The only absolutely safe underwater epoxy that I know of is epoxy stick sold by 2 little fishies. I'm sure there is an equivalent but I'm not aware of it at this time. I do know that superglue can be used for coral cuttings but thats not what your talking about

MY FILTRATION ---   TWO MAGNIUMS .   SUPPLYING FORM EACH END OF THE TANK,
PIPED DOWN TO 3/4" PLASTIC PIPE WITH HOLES DRILLED -  THEY RUN THE LENGTH
OF THE TANK UNDER THE EGGCRATE STRUCTURE.  I DON'T SEE A LOT OF MOVEMENT
OF  WATER  OR SAND FROM THE PIPES UNDER THE EGGCRATE, BUT THERE ARE
INTERESTING  BUBBLES THAT ARISE FROM  AND THROUGH THE ROCKS.  ADDS INTEREST.  AT THIS  TIME I HAVEN'T RESET MY SKIMMER.  WILL WAIT FOR THINGS TO GET A LITTLE MORE ESTABLISHED.

Yes thats typical, those bubbles will or should go away. That is air in the water probably from cavitation of the pumps, it should all minimize in time.

TOOK NUMEROUS PICTURES OF THE FILTRATION AND THE EGGCRATE DURING THE  PROCESS,  AND WANT TO TAKE SOME OF THE FINAL RESULT IN A FEW MORE DAYS.
AS PROMISED, I'LL SEND THEM ALONG IN DUE TIME.   ALTHOUGH THE FINAL RESULT
WILL BE MONTHS DOWN THE ROAD WHEN I SEE MY CORALS GROWING AND EVERYTHING WELL ESTABLISHED.

Great Ill be looking forward to that, and I can put them up on the web when I get them.

I would keep an eye on ammonia & nitrite to make sure the tank is cycled. other
than that everything sounds great!

I am currently running my 125 gallon reef tank at temperature range  between 27.8 - 29.4 degrees centigrade. Is this a bit too hot?

Yes "a bit" is about right. Ideally you want to be around 80 degrees and your temps are 82 -85.85 degrees is about maximum before the animals get stressed

I've tried injecting copious amounts of air into the dry column & have  also installed a ventilating fan with its louvers directing on the water  surface of my sump. In addition, lots of air is also forced on the surface of the aquarium. With all these, I only manage to bring the temp as above.

Humm I wouldn't want to see it without the fans!

I've had a chiller before, but got busted a few times also the noise is irritating. I desperately need some advice on how to keep reef tanks cooler or maybe it will be better if you can suggest on some corals that can  thrive in this temperature.

You don't say

• how long has it been like this what took place to notice the increased temp

• how old is the tank

• how does the tank look (creatures)

• is this due to seasonal temp swings?

• where in the world you live (ambient temp)

• what the room temp is?

• type of lighting MH ??

• enclosed hood?

• if your tank is lit with MH how many watts?

• and do your creatures need such high light/wattage

• the light/wattage is it needed?

• use a room air conditioner if the ambient temp is constantly 80 deg or higher.

• air conditioners work very well

• improve your fan situation make sure the hood is adequately ventilated

• 85 deg is max 80 is desired

actually the best advise is common sense. How do the creatures look? That is the BEST indication regardless of what you read or hear. Animals, fish inverts, coral can adapt to a fairly wide range of conditions. The real problem with high temperature is the metabolism of the creature is increased. So it eats more, produces more waste and IMO accelerates its life span. Although if its a hardy animal it will also reproduce more.I really don't like chillers as they are expensive and expensive to run. If you could get a room air conditioner that would definitely bring down the tank temp as well as keeping you cool ;-)
That's my preference. Actually your tank temps are not that much different the your observations of the sea in your area

I am reading your book, "Simplified Reef Keeping".  It is fantastic!

Thank You

First of all, my tank is pre-drilled.  It has one hole at the right rear of the tank.  This is fine.  I was planning to do as you recommend by placing the return spray bar along the back of the tank.  The problem is that there are two other holes drilled near the center of this tank. They were originally used as intakes for an Ocean Clear 325 for  mechanical filtration.  Since I will be utilizing the Berlin method by  relying on the liverock and protein skimmer for principal filtration (as well as regular water changes), I want to omit the use of this Ocean Clear filter.

yes you don't need the Ocean clear, unless you plan to use it as a pump only.
No media just as a pump. I see it in your diagram

I feel that it will create an accumulation of waste that  will require regular maintenance and the possibility of unwanted  biological processes, not to mention the potential onset of microalgae  blooms.

yes, what it will really do is produce nitrate so you don't want any external biological media

Since the holes already exist, I was thinking of utilizing them for additional circulation.  I am planning to extend these outlets through the eggcrate to about mid point within the tank and attach strainers that will be level with the live rock.  They should be virtually invisible.  My gut feeling tells me that they may also draw minute particles of available foods towards anemones dwelling on the liverock.  Are you following me?  The circulation would be provided  by  an in-line pump with a return line into the top rear of this tank. What do you think?

ok bear with me here... first I would keep it as simple as possible. simple IS better, so use only one pump for the main return, and the main return is to the spraybar.I see in your drawing 3 holes in the bottom of the tank what diameter are they? The one on the right can be used for the spraybar as you show.
The other 2 should rise up to the surface of the water and used for overflows also cover them with plastic gutter guard. If they are one inch they will barely be adequate for an overflow 1.25 or 1.5 are much better sizes but I understand you have to use what you have. Possibly use the questionable upper center holes also for overflows.

My second problem is that the system that I purchased came with a wet/dry filter that you do not recommend.

the wet dry container is fine (for a sump) but media in it is no good

 I will have a few coral fish (mostly herbivores for algae control), but primarily liverock;  therefore, the use of this filtration system will not be justified.  Your idea regarding the conversion of the wet/dry into a pre-filter appears to be practical, but I have one question pertaining this  method.  IMO, dirty water from the tank should be allowed to flow over  the pre-filter material to remove initial materials.  The protein skimmer would then be utilized for secondary removal of organics and oxygenation.  The last step would be the return of clean oxygenated water back to the reef tank.  In respect to your methodology, water
flows directly into the dirty water portion of the sump and is picked up by the skimmer and then filtered through the pre-filter.  Wouldn't you want to remove most materials (via pre-filtration) prior to dirty water entering the skimmer?  Or, is protein skimmer placement versatile?

It can be versatile. The prefilter really acts as a mechanical filter getting what the protein skimmer misses. There has been allot of controversy regarding pre filters saying that they remove necessary food particulate  for corals etc. My opinion is.. to remove heavily and feed well remove/add. I think folks get
into big debates comparing the ocean (nature) to our tanks. The creatures need to be fed however one cannot depend on *set and forget* mentality. Frankly the debates on the net are endless and more importantly inconclusive, also there is no one way that works for everyone. Much of my new version will be concentrating on this mind set. So getting back to your original question re: prefilter I use it. And mine is located after the skimmer so that any large particles the skimmer misses gets picked up by the PF and that is cleaned weekly.

The  conversion of my wet/dry awaits your response!

No media. for a sump its fine as long as it is able to hold all the water from the tank when the power goes off.

 My third question is directly related to the placement of liverock.  I totally agree with your philosophy about the use of eggcrate to suspend the liverock and allow adequate circulation of water from the spray bar.  I want to utilize eggcrate material to support my liverock...but in a different manner.  I would like to create an island topography  rather than the usual reef slope.  I want to incorporate caves and peaks  as well as provide ample swimming room and alternate niches for my livestock.  Have you had any experience with such structures?  Is it  practical?

Quite a few readers want to do this. I suspect it comes from not using the original method or thinking its too "wall like" I feel one can make a very interesting setup with my method without needing to reinvent the wheel with speculative ideas. When I began I tried to do shelf's islands etc... too much work and not a stable system. Most really want or need to do this if the tank is viewed form both sides then one simply makes a inverted V cuts holes through the eggcrate sets the rock around the holes/caves and uses plastic dowels protruding from the eggcrate to make a shelf for corals or that special piece
of liverock.

I have attached a diagram (.bmp) of my reef tank setup for you to view. Feel free to doodle on it and make any necessary alterations and/or  suggestions.

very nice drawing a couple of things you will need 2 300 watt heaters preferably in the tank or at least one in the tank I would get rid of the denitrification chamber you don't need that I don't see the location of the p skimmer NO bio balls note a good covering for water intakes is plastic gutter guard & cable ties

In regards to the pre-drilled holes...They are 1 3/4 inch and fitted with 1 inch bulkheads.

Ok remember  the one inch wont drain that much water I would suggest a dry run first with plain tap water to make sure it will  do the  job

 The one at the right rear of the tank is planned to be used as the return for the spray bar.  The center two...I am not sure.  You said that I should do away with the denitrification chamber and utilize the two center holes for my overflows.  First of all, the denitrification chamber will not be used as that.  I have eliminated all bio-balls within it.  Its sole purpose is anticipated for use as a surface skimmer/overflow.

OK  I hope it can handle the water flow… you may need more than that

  Secondly, IMO its position is excellent for surface water flow,

Ok, but you may find that you need more overflow… and with a good waterflow IN you will need good flow OUT this creates substantial movement of the water surface. This eliminates the need for other circulation… a good water pump (say min all volume of water 5X per hour to 7 X per hour through the spraybar will give you very good surface overflow

providing that I have another return at the upper right rear of the tank.  I was planning to use the two center holes for additional circulation (and without the use of the Ocean Clear 325 filter).  I do not want the strainers set at or near the base of this tank, because they may interfere with particulate movement to the front of the tank as it is dislodged by the rear spray bar.  What I wanted to do is raise them to about mid-height or a bit lower.  This may remove some of the debris before it settles onto the live rock, but not interfere with the bottom and/or surface water movement.

What about creatures getting sucked in??

 My feeling is that, yes these hole diameters are too small to be used as overflows. Also, surface water circulation may be disrupted.  One other thing as that the general aesthetics of the reef tank would suffer by the addition of two overflows within its center.  I know that aesthetics are not everything, but IMO they are an important part of planning.  What do you think?

Yes its important to plan no doubt. I didn't see an overhead view of the tank.. are they in the center or toward the back? If they are toward the back then simply run a pipe to the surface and it will be used as a drain. However, unless you have an ABSOLUTE water tight seal they can / may drain the tank, so you have to be careful. If they are in the center I think they would probably be unsightly. Then maybe best
to plug them and use a surface skimmer box in their place.

In regards about the wet/dry conversion to a pre-filter & sump...The current wet/dry is about 31 gallons (36"L x 11"W x 18"H).  This should be ample volume for containment in the event of a power outage, but it will be tested.

 Remember that my three holes within the bottom of the tank are drilled 1.75" diameter and were fitted with 1.0" bulkhead fittings that would result in insufficient water flow OUT (without the use of a surface  skimmer box or additional drilling).  I have found a local glass company  in town.  The problem is that their largest bit is 2.0" which is not large enough to install 1.5" bulkhead fittings, but they can use a router to enlarge them to 2.5" diameter, thereby allowing the installation of 1.5" bulkheads.  What I have figured on doing was to enlarge the one right rear hole (originally to be used as spraybar) to fit a 1.5" bulkhead.  Two new holes would then be drilled (one in rear left and one in rear center of the tank).  All of these three holes would then be fitted with 1.5" bulkheads with plumbing and strainers to the surface for use as overflows.  The two original center holes would be left alone, fitted with elbows and Tees (to the rear of the tank) to allow more even water pressure distribution and flow from the spraybar.

sounds good to me. I'm surprised a glass place can router holes!

 I purchased the turbo floater 1000 protein skimmer.  Its pump is rated at  695 GPH.  I don't think that it will keep up with the intake; therefore, some of the dirty water may have to flow into the clean sump compartment for return to the tank.

Humm... well looking at your diagram (nice job) the 1200gph looks to be able to pull out more
water in the side of the sump coming from the skimmer. You may need a hole in the baffle in the
sump to regulate the water height there.. if the pumps aren't matched.some observations... The 3 1.5" overflows going into the sump are probably going to be messy. You would probably be better off connecting the 2 on the left to the one on the right. Also, it would be much better to have the 2 on the left.. instead of being somewhat horizontal on the bottom to be at an angle. This will greatly influence the water flow and minimize air pockets that will hinder draining. And, the tops of the overflow pipes will end up being at the *exact* surface of the water. You need that so as to pull air in to the pipes to facilitate draining. The biggest problem here is to be able to have the pipes be *vented* so positive draining
occurs. This will probably take place at the surface of the pipe. The plumbing to the spray bar should be a T instead of Y just to make things simpler and much less bulky. The filter in sump going to the little giant is not needed. If anything just a piece of eggcrate or gutter guard would only be used in the case of a snail wanders ALL through the system and ends up to clog your main pump!

I see your pretty much dictated by the existing holes of the tank and that your trying to make the best of the situation. Just take the above ideas and then test it with tap water. Run the whole thing for a few days and see how it goes. It all looks good on paper but when you introduce water... its a whole other ball game.
The only other thing I would say is to keep the amount of fittings to a minimum 90 deg elbows
etc. Use flexible clear vinyl & insert (barbed hose fittings) where ever possible. Also use the
rubber furnco so as to be able to detach the hard pipe where ever needed.
Other than that everything looks fine

 Thanks for the raving review!  You are right about the 1200 GPH in-line
pump.  The Rio 2100 pump (695 GPH) will not be able to keep up to it.
The plexiglass panel used to divide the dirty and clean portions of the
sump box will be a bit lower than the pre-filter; therefore, some dirty
water would be allowed to flow over and into the clean water side.  IMO,
this may be bad.

The height of the plexiglass baffell will dictate basically how much water is held in place. If its not
where you want it you may have to drill a hole through it at the desired height. Might is the key
word!

I was thinking of perhaps adding a Mag Drive 500 or
similar to help match the output of the 1200 GPH in-line.

where?? into the skimmer? you will be pumping 1200 gph so water will be coming out of the tank at that
rate. How it gets pumped from the dirty side to the skimmer... is the question.

The second
pump in the dirty water portion would also be used to pump dirty water
into the pre-filter box before the 1200 GPH pump returns it to the
spraybar.  Sound okay?

Ok I see. ideally you want to have the skimmer & main pump about the same. I would just have the
OUTFLOW into the sump dirty area to the skimmer and then simply have the rest (what the skimmer
pump
does not get) just overflow the baffell / hole to the 1200 gph little giant. It does not make much
practical sense to pump the water up and over the baffell <grin>

It may generate unnecessary heat within the
tank.

That would only be a problem in the summer but never the less it could still be a problem.

Secondly, the filter that I show within the clean side of the sump
(intake to 1200 GPH in-line pump) is actually a threaded strainer.  It
will be installed for the same reason you mentioned.

ok but you have to watch out that it does not get clogged or that the grating is large enough

Third...In regards to the WYE.  I think that you are referring to the
fitting below the tank.  Correct?  Why would you replace it with a Tee?
I thought that it would restrict flow to the spraybar.

I just think all those fittings are un necessary and a T would do just fine. Its what I use ;-)with
1200 gph a T is just fine. But of course do what you like or feel would work best for you.

Fourth...Intakes to the dirty chamber of the sump box were simply drawn
on my diagram for clarity purposes.  Yes, these lines will be angled to
help prevent air locks and associated noise.  Since the strainers on
their tops will not be totally submerged, they should allow for adequate
water & air mixture.

OK

Fifth and final...Yes, I want to dry run this system ASAP.

You mean WET RUN..... <grin>...  tap water

If there is anything else that you would like me to change or replace,

please let me know ASAP.

I think that about covers it. You will find any problems when its running with water. But sounds good
 You sound like quite the character!  Your hehehe and <grin> crack me
up!  In any event, your advise and humor have been unsurpassed.  Your
punctuality has also been fantastic.  Thanks again for the Simplified
Reef Keeping experience.

 Reefkeeping should be FUN! ... I'm glad you appreciate it ;-)

In respect to your comment about the dirty water flowing into the clean
water side of the sump...I know that it doesn't make much sense to pump
water across to match water volumes, but what I had thought was that if
I pumped it over and into the pre-filter box, it would be also be
filtered through the Marineland #100 material.  Therefore, clean water
would always be leaving this portion of the sump box.  Dirty water would
then not be allowed to mix with the clean water returned to the tank and
thereby be allowed to recirculate within the reef tank.  Does this make
any sense?...Or am I pissing in the wind here?  I agree that the dirty
water would eventually flow over the baffle (or drilled hole), but I
just wanted to clean it up a bit before sending it back to the reef.  I
trust your judgement here, but just wanted an explanation why (in this
case) the bypassed water shouldn't be at least filtered.

Yes logically it makes sense.. to at least get *some* filtration (the filterfloss) but for practical
purposes electrical savings, heat generated, more plumbing, etc I Don't think its practical or even that
beneficial. The skimmer does the real work and the floss is just for mechanical particles. The floss has
come under extensive debate wether or not to use it. I like to use it but some consider it to remove too
much form the water. I'm for simplicity. The less electrical connections, plumbing fittings the better. If
the skimmer & main Don't match then one has to compromise a bit. I feel the whole system is really rated
by
the skimmer and the main pump is to keep up with that.

Ok let me know Keep some towels near by ;-)

Good

  Yes, it currently contains Geo Marine fabric, eggcrate,
pre-filter material and bio-balls.

You don't need or want any media. The liverock does it all

I did not show placement of the protein skimmer in my diagram.  It is a
controversial issue at this time.  I am trying to find a venturi skimmer
that will be adequate for my reef setup.  I would like to place it
within my sump, but have another dilemma.  Clearance within my stand is
restricted to 26" maximum.  There is no place for external placement
unless I build an extension onto one end of the stand.

That's the BEST bet keep the skimmer on the side above the sump. Its more work in
the beginning and can possibly be unsightly but once its up… I guarantee you'll be
happy regarding performance, cleaning etc.

 You suggest the use of a protein skimmer that is at least twice the tank volume
recommended.  I have heard great rumors about the Aqua Medic turbo floater
1000.  It is 23" tall and recommended for tanks to 300 gallons which is
barely sufficient.  The CPR SR6 model has an overall height of 26" and
also rated for use on up 300 gallons.  The CPR SR9 has an overall height
of 34" and is recommended for aquariums up to 600 gallons.

I haven't used either but have heard very good things about them both.

  Red Sea Berlin models... The Classic is 23" in overall height and recommended
for tanks up to 250 gallons.  The Berlin XL is 33" tall and recommended
for tanks up to 400 gallons.   I am so confused!  Dan Cole at MOPS is
trying to help me make up my mind, but if you have any suggestions,
please HELP.

First selection would be an ETS on the side above the sump
2nd  turbo floater
3rd CPR
red sea last

Yes, I have one 300W heater that I will place within the sump.  Once the
tank is dry run prior to cycling, I will be able to determine if it will
even be required.  Excess heat will be generated from the use of
submersible pumps and the metal halide/fluorescent combination canopy.
Temperatures will cool off somewhat in the evenings, but should be able
to be controlled by the  single 300W submersible heater.  Time will tell
this story.

Ok

I reviewed your images with liverock configurations.  They are sketchy,
but I understand the concept.  If you have additional info on this
subject, I would appreciate you forwarding it.  The options seem
endless, but I want something more than the usual wall of liverock to
accommodate my inhabitants.  At the same time, I want a low maintenance
tank...One that works for me.
 

Hehehe… yes of course. I think that unless the tank is going to be viewed from front
and back the eggcrate setup in my book will do fantastic! The liverock is setup with
irregular pieces that will protrude thus not having a "flat wall look"  It works!
And it works very well. And of course looks beautiful.
There are many, many, types of tank setups including not using eggcrate. I recommend
my approach because it works well and looks nice too.
The other method (simple) if the tank is to be viewed from both sides is to use
eggcrate in a inverted V and use that as a framework. My method really gives a 3
dimensional look of a reef rather than the look of a fish tank with liverock in it.
People just look and say WOW!! It provides a FULL look. Just read and do exactly as
described in the book.
Well I hope I've helped to answer some questions <grin> you have to understand that it is
somewhat difficult for me to keep up with all the correspondence I have up dating my
FAQ and trying to complete the new version of my book. Its also difficult to give
specific advise to conditions I'm not aware of or cannot see.
I try but….
It sounds to me that you are very much on track and will do exceptional. The BEST
advise I can give is to make it as simple, easy to maintain, for the long run
because after its set up for a while the novelty wears off and maintenance comes in…
that's REALLY where the planning comes in. Once you have the liverock I think you
will find proper placement and the "LOOK" will just come. Good water flow, proper
skimming placement really pays off.

I cannot accept your recommendation about plugging these two holes.  It
seems to be a waste of circulation potential; therefore, I have been
toying with several ideas.  Each of the two 1" bulkheads in question are
situated about 23.5" from the sides and about 9.5" from the rear of the
tank.  This leaves about 14" clear to the front of the tank.  Your
original suggestion was to use these two bulkheads (if situated at the
rear of the tank and larger than 1" diameter) as overflows.  Since the
holes are situated more in the center of the tank and are only 1"
diameter, they pose a BIG problem.  I am still uncertain of the outcome,
but will continue to have plumbing nightmares until it is resolved!  One
option that I have considered is the use of overflows, but not straight
up from their location.  My idea was to run them up, angled parallel
with the eggcrate and then up to the rear surface of the tank fitted
with strainers.  The return would be routed back into the rear of the
tank and perpendicular to the spray bar water flow.  Again, I'm still
tinkering in frustration.

Ok I'm sure you can get something to work. Just buy some fittings and dry fit until you get
them situated the way you want. The *potential for problems* is if any of the fittings
leak ..even slightly..if & when the power goes off the tank will drain down to that level
So IMO that's the most important consideration. Also from my experience one inch
bulkhead is able to drain approx 250 GPH

According to my calculations, the upper 4" of water within my tank will
completely fill my 30 gallon sump....That is without any contents (i.e.
protein skimmer, recirculating pump, eggcrate, etc.)  That is allot of
room for error; therefore, I will continue my quest for additional
circulation via the use of existing...but misplaced bulkheads.

In regards to waterflow...You say that with the surface skimmer that I
will be using for flow OUT, there may be insufficient water flow IN.

No, I mean for flow IN to the tank(from the pump) you need the same or slightly more
capacity OUT(with the overflows)
this depends on what size pump you use. Usually in a reef tank its a minimum of 5X the
tank volume per hour.I have found most hobbyists use at least 5X per hour while 7X is a
bit better and quite a few have 10X....!
keep in mind you want the skimmer pump and main pump to be about the same
for what its worth... I have a 200 with 2 little giant 1200 gph skimmer & main I have 4
1.5 in bulkheads
i could get away with 3 but I wanted to have the benefit of extra potential for waterflow.
So 3 1.5 inch will do 1200GPH Also consider the overflow box you have is really dictated
by the size of the pipe not the size of the box.

This, in part may be handled by the use of additional overflow as
mentioned above, but I will be using a submersible pump rated at 1200
GPH.  I have a Little Giant 5-MD-SC (but may be replaced due to noise)
for additional circulation.

If you have any more ideas on this topic, please let me know.  I'll keep
pacing the floor, staring into my empty tank and drifting into plumbing
nightmares until the solution has been rectified.

ok just remember you can easily pump in with a pump regardless of size of the pipe. But
when your draining via Gravity... and allot of water in... you need to have sizable pipe
out Just a few things to consider... <grin>
Worst case is you have to fill the tank one or 2 times with tap water to test the
plumbing. I DO know filling a 230 is a fair amount of work. Testing it, filling and
letting it run for a week or so Doing  simulated outages will be well worth it in the long
run

You can get it directly from Modern Plastics  1-800-243-9696 and ask for Raul Flores. I was there about
6 months ago and asked if he would be willing to ship eggcrate to my readers and he said he would be
happy to. So give him a call. I think he gets about $8 for a 2x4 ft piece not including
shipping.
I'm glad to hear your going to use my eggcrate method I'm sure you will be happy with the results. Feel
free to contact me if needed. Also, if your getting a order from modern and plan to do any fabrication with
plexiglass I would suggest to also get a few tubes or containers of weldon plexi glue.
Its only around $2 ea. and lasts a long time. Get one fast set and one slow set if you get the fast set tell
them to include an applicator .99 cts. You may also ask for a few 3/8 or 1/3in plexi dowels they can come
in handy to make small shelf's in the eggcrate structure again they are only about
a buck for a 36 in piece.

I would just let the cleaner shrimp take care of it and not go overboard on
"cures". Often the cure is worse than the infection. .You Don't say how long
the fish has been in the tank. If its relatively new 1 week or less I
suspect the cleaners to take care of it. Also clowns are fairly resistant
to ich so...
I would also venture a guess that the fish was somehow subjected to temp
variations to prompt the ich.
If you already have the temp salinity process underway then proceed but keep
in mind to do all changes gradually.
My approach would be to wait and see... if any other fish show signs
if they did, then do the temp salinity

I'm very leary of medication, yet hear glowing reports of a product
called 'Ecolibrium' for reef tanks-opinions

could be but I wouldn't use it.I would just let nature take its course
Let me know your results

That is for the skimmer drain. Although When I added my downdraft I
found it better to install another bulkhead directly under the drain and
have a piece of corrugated hose to direct the water from the skimmer to
the clean side / drip plate.

Next, for the 90 gallon tank, We have figured a sump box 20x24x16/231 =
33.2 gal.
we only need 22.5 gallons but (on the safe side) Do you think this is to
much sump?

It may be bigger than you need but If you have the space I would go with
the larger size. That way it will never be an issue whether you have
enough capacity.

On the Plexiglas partition for this size sump would you use a 12" coming
up from bottom and a 15" coming down from top?

!2 inches is probably more than you need. Keep in mind it shouldn't be
higher than needed as it may tend to bow from the height / pressure of
the water.
I would think 8 to 10 inches max more than adequate. You really only
need to be able to separate the clean and dirty side without having it
overflow. Because of your tank is rectangular you could go with a lower
height, opposed to  a square box.

We plan on using an air driven home-made skimmer from Ron's salt water
heaven.
It is a six foot stand alone skimmer and how would We go about feeding
it from this type of sump.

To feed it… its simple, just have a bulkhead connected to a pump and
pump the water in. I would make sure you get the correct size pump. Then
have it drain into the clean side / drip plate and pump back into the
tank.

We live in a small town in which we can not get our tanks drilled, we
will need to use a hang on the back overflow. We are
looking at the life-reef prefilter/siphon which will handle 700 gph flow
(iwaki 700 gph pump)
I use Brian @ Reefers or there are a few others
on my links page
Links

Thank You so much for your time.
We are welcome to any opinions

Sounds like you have done your homework. I know Ron believes in cc
skimming and I'm sure his skimmers do very well. Although I think a 6 ft
cc will be costly to run airstones air pump etc. I would use a ets but…
I'm sure it will do fine.

Your algae will pass, its all part of the cycle a newer longer balancing out of the tank is
happening (this is all good)! remove what you can but don't sweat it It will go away. I'm sure
you know it will take some time to get the tank back in GOOD LOOKING condition.
It would be a very good idea to add kalkwasser for ALL make up water this will boost pH help to
discourage algae, and begin to build up your coralline.

 How's it going? I hope all is well, my tank is slowly coming along
but looking good none the less. The coralline algae is blooming like crazy after I added that live rock from
New Hampshire.

excellent!

Unfortunately my Star Polyps and Mushrooms are not coming back,

I bet the mushrooms & polyps come back just have to give it time
 

actually there is one
Mushroom out of a rock of 50 is slowly emerging out of a rock, but
reduced in size to about half a dime. I have a quick question for you, a
friend of mine and who is also my boss at work was out of power for 21
days. His reef tank apparently had a rough time throughout the storm,
and his question was do you think there is any chance that any of his
polyps or Mushrooms have a chance to make it back. Feather dusters, or
just anything. I just recently lent my book out to him last week, and I
have heard very good comments from him which I am always glad to
hear.

Yes I would say all or most of the macro fauna will come back. have to
give it time! Will probably be very similar to your tank. The best thing
is to reseed it with some new rock and or live sand, have a good water
turnover add kalkwasser for evaporation and then give it time. Its also
quite possible to have an initial algae outbreak due to the cycle.. its
all part of it.
Obviously, its not the best thing to happen to a tank.. but as you see
for yourself it can & does come back. Whether the individual can be
patient enough is another story.

As far as heaters I belive I'm using the Ottos 300 Watt 2 of them. For a
while they were keeping the tank at maximum 82 deg. (this
winter)Although the tanks are in an area where it is cooler than the
rest of the house. 2 of them will do the trick at least for me.Also keep
in mind my tank is really 2x2x7 or a 180approx + a 45 gall sump + a 55
gall refugium all together with a 5ft ets and 2 little giant 1200gph
running the tank. So quite a bit of stuff is exterior or out of the
tank. I got the heaters from brian at reefers for about $35 ea his site
is on the links page also

How do you rid your tank of the anemones?

Hi Cris It sounds like your friend has purchased a nudibranch. I have heard from
many people tat they are so small they disappear in the tank.
What I'm about to tell you is somewhat private info and will be in the new release
of SRK.It may seem unsafe but I assure you it is very safe and works EXTREMELY
well <grin>
Here is what you do
Go to a grocery store and purchase Red Devil Lye (make sure its Red Devil)
Get your self a 3 cc syringe no needle just the plastic syringe larger than 3cc is
even better if you can find a 6 or 10cc even better. Get these at the pharmacy or
from a vet you only need one.
Get a small container with a airtight lid a fish food container works well.
Lets say you have a 2 oz dry weight fish food container rinse it out and fill with
3.4 with water. I use DI water.
Then add 3/4 teaspoon of the red devil lye (be careful its nasty stuff!!) stir
with a spoon or other utensil
or put the air tight top on and shake (be careful when you shake and that the lid
is on tight)
Then simply fill the syringe with the mix and go to the apitasta and give it a
small squirt it doesn't take much  <POOF> vaporized!!! next...repeat as needed.
Sometimes its helpful to give then a little nudge with the syringe so they retract
in the rock where the lethal dose can be more effective.
When you do this you'll notice a whitish glob like substance, that's the lye
reacting with the salt water. Merely swoosh this away with your hand and of course
you do not what any of this landing on your corals. A little practice and common
sense and you'll have it down in no time at all.
This works the best
Next would be to get one or two peppermint shrimp not cleaners or camel backs but
peppermint shrimp they are known to do a fair job as well...although some do and
some don't.
Last and most drastic for a tank that is completely overrun you will have to get a
copperband butterfly fish. Most copperbands will go to town on the apitasta
however they may also eat any feather dusters or possibly soft corals. again some
Creatures do a great job some don't you just have to try and see for yourself.
If you need any other help Ill do what I can although I'm extremely busy with the
new book and other things.

Off hand... No, I do not know specific sites for info on CC Starfish.
Personally I love them! Very easy to keep, extremely hardy... will eat algae
detritus and un eaten food. The move around very well in the tank and are
not shy at all (compared to other starfish) AND... its a very interesting
creature.Now, other hobbyists (some) consider them to eat corals and do not
think they are good for a reef. However that is not my experience at all.
here is a picture of my CC star ../rm4.jpg its the
thing with 5 legs <grin>
As far as I know they are not filter feeders but opportunistic scavengers
and also eat a fair share of algae.
One thing you will find being on the net is... getting  different reports on
the same creature. I only speak from my own experience.
I think you'll like it! Just keep an eye on what it eats and you don't have
to worry about feeding it. It will easily find its own food.