Tap water purification IMO is a very important , necessary and a significant additional cost to the set-up. I would strongly advise a DI or RO along with carbon pre filters before the actual purification. Using DI or RO will greatly reduce any problems with micro algae (the bane of reef tanks) it also allows IMO the high quality saltmix to better dissolve and release its beneficial trace elements along with yielding a known pH on a regular basis. Personally I prefer the DI, it does produce a lower quality of water than a RO however I find it to be more than acceptable.

I have used both RO and DI and the problem of having waste water (need a drain nearby) the slowness of its production and having to leave the unit on for substantially extended periods of time, not to mention having to store/move the treated water led me to use the DI. Another useful suggestion is to have the unit set-up rite near the tank, either temporarily with a removable garden hose or more permanently connected to the water supply from the house. By having the water supply at the tank will make topping off for evaporation and water changes easy. The DI has less connections to fail, less expensive to maintain and overall easier to use.

TWP

I cant say much for your dead fish. For the algae do you have a water purifier? RO or DI? Is it of sufficient size? Do you change the resin? Membrane? Do you have carbon pre-filters before the RO / DI ? I have found that using a quality water purification system takes care of most algae problems in a preventative natural way. You cant underestimate the importance of purified water! (sorry about your fish)

I have a counter-top R/O filtration that does appr.2gals in about 2 1/2 hours which goes into reservoir tank. If I attach a hose to inside tube where water comes out I can use this to fill (I know 125 gals /along time) A retail pet shop recommended the tap water filtration that changes color as the filters need changing, are these acceptable?

Yes that's the indicating type.

My tank will be located in kitchen /breakfast area actually near the water source and a drain (sink). I purchased the counter-top be fore I was interested in reef and was rather expensive so I would like to use it until I can re-coupe some money after initial start-up if you don't see major drawbacks. How much evaporation fill-up will be required (estimation of course). In the summer about 5+ gallons a week, winter 1/3 less

How long can I store water that has been filtered?

You could store it for quite some time but IMO better not to have it hang around too long

I want to make up water in advance for evaporation and water changes. Do the systems in mags for R/O fit under sink ,on tank stand or what is the difference?

The difference is... as in my book about RO or DI. IMO I prefer DI No waste water IMO it can be a big deal as to where you can put it (need a drain) I don't want to be redundant but reread the section on makeup water and comparisons of RO to DI

I think when you get your own TWP tap water purification you should notice a difference with the algae. Also Because you don't dose kalkwasser (you should) that may have an effect on encouraging algae kalk keeps the pH high like 8.2 to 8.4 and is overall good for the tank I know you use other calcium additives but I would recommend kalk. Dosed as I described in the book just my opinion.

On another front, the aquarium store where I was buying my filtered water is closing. So, now I must buy a filter. I have seen some in another aquarium store in San Francisco, but they seem a little pricey. I wonder if their price is fair.

That will be allot more convenient and better for your tank

They have what looks like a 4 stage filter. 2 RO stages, a Carbon stage and a DI stage. It has a pressure gauge on it as well. Looks pretty nice, well made. However, they want about $350 for the darn thing. Is that a high price?

Ill bet it does look nice but... long term application 4 stage membrane, waste water no I would find a one stage commercial deionizer they hold one gallon of resin. Using a one stage is a long term no-brainier all you buy is the resin that also can be recharged. They cost about 250 and are worth it just one nice solid piece of hardware Then buy your own carbon pre filters and hook up for a superior system better less expensive and easier to use. Maybe reread the section on water purifiers that will give you some fresh ideas since you are now in the market for one

Omni filtered tap( a carbon filter) I use activated charcoal and it's been about a month since its been changed.

well I'm sure you know most use R/O d/i That will significantly improve your source water IMO very important. As in the book I prefer just a single stage DI with several carbon pre filters no waste water etc. I guess time will tell. I know I couldn't run my tank w/o it

Why 3 carbon pre-filters ??

I believe using fairly inexpensive carbon pre filters extends the DI resin As in the book, I have 1 single cartridge that gets replaced 6x per year a double that gets replaced 3x per yr. and the DI resin 2x per yr. The first acts as *THE* prefilter the second dual acts as a semi prefilter

No, Its fine to use but the drawback is having to buy it and lug it around. After awhile it gets to be a nuisance. Of course I assume its for a small tank 55 or under. estimate how much water you plan to use for
evaporation, frequency of water changes, and decide if your willing to go that route. Also by making the water a premium you may tend to be more conservative than you would like to be, water changes etc. I wont go on, as you are just asking if its ok or not.

What about products such as ESV additives 1 and 2 buffer and calcium ?

The ESV is a very good product. Expensive, but good. However I don't use plain old Kalkwasser aka: calcium hydroxide along with regular water changes. That tends to lend the most stability to the tank over the long
run without unnecessary expense or inconvenience.

MAIN PG

Your tools

Awesome Links!

Your tanks

Your survey

Order Now